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Changes of the catecholamins, serotonine and lactate levels during sport climbing on a climbing wall depending on the leader climber's style of belaying
Strnadová, Kateřina ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (advisor) ; Bunc, Václav (referee)
Title: Changes of the catecholamins, serotonine and lactate levels during sport climbing on a climbing wall depending on the leader climber's style of belaying. Goals: The Goal of this thesis is to build on the bachelor thesis and develop its goals. The research is focused on a detection of blood hormonal changes before performance, right after it and after a 15- minute pacification depending on a style of a personal profile and style of belaying of the climbers. Hormonal changes have been compared during the performance on two climbing routes of the same difficulty and different styles of belaying. Methods: The randomized research sample consisted of 10 women, climbers, who climbed two routes using the OS (on sight) style on the level of maximum effort. One of the routes was climbed with clipping in protection points against the second route, which was climbed without protection points. The research was performed using a blood collection from v. brachialis and spinning off the blood plasma of the collected blood. Lactate was determined on Siemens Adria 1800 in a routine laboratory, serotonine was determined using LS-MS/MS with a gradient elution. Catecholamines were determined using LS-MS/MS with an isocratic elution. The survey composed of three psychological questionnaires (DMV, RCAI, Eysenck's...
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Training system for clibmers
Polach, Pavel ; Sekora, Jiří (referee) ; Bubník, Karel (advisor)
The purpose of this diploma thesis was design and realisation of measuring system, enabling measuring forces between climber´s feet and holds on the climbing wall and using this measu-red values during a training of sport climber. In this thesis there are discovered possibilities about constructing this system and determina-ted basic requirements of measuring. There are also stated principles of application the strain gauges for measuring the tension. Descriptions of developping specific sensors, hardware interface and PC application are also part of this thesis. Constructed system was used for mea-suring climbers and values were analysed by using the application.
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An Electronic Guide to Rock Climbing Areas for Android Platform
Chvála, Jan ; Očenášek, Pavel (referee) ; Rychlý, Marek (advisor)
This thesis deals with the design and implementation of an information system which serves as a guide for climbing areas. This system is based on the client-server architecture. The server provides access to central database through web services. It is written in PHP programming language using the Nette Framework. The client application enables the user to create content and store it in a local database which can be synchronized with the server. It is written in Java programming language and developed for Android mobile platform. The whole system should be used as an alternative to today's common printed guides.
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Influence of dynamic and static warm-up on muscle strength in climbers.
Formánková, Dita ; Vomáčková, Helena (advisor) ; Nováková, Tereza (referee)
Title Influence of dynamic and static warm-up on muscle strength in climbers. Objective The aim of the thesis is to assess the influence of dynamic warm-up with Thera-Band and static stretching on maximal muscle strength and its time parameters of finger flexors in dominant upper extremity in climbers. Methods Eight active climbers participated in this testing (age 32.4 ± 5.5, body weight 69.4 ± 6.5, height 176 ± 6.4). Actual performance RP was according to the French scale ranging 6b to 8a. Probands' measurements proceeded in three different days. After a specific warm-up on "boulder wall" and static stretching and dynamic warm-up with Thera-Band without stretching, there was maximal muscle strength of fingers flexors on dominant (preferred) upper limb measured by using a specific climbing test on hangboard. The second measurement assessed maximal strength of finger flexors muscle and its time parameters while proceeding of the maximum hand-grip using a hand dynamometer. Results In the experiment, none of the hypotheses came to be confirmed. There was no significant influence of static stretching and dynamic warm-up with Thera-Band on maximal muscle strength of finger flexors and the time parameters in climbers. Conclusion Despite the failure to prove the influence of the static stretching and...
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Effect of caffeine on local isometric performance of finger flexors in sport climbers.
Ťuka, Jeroným ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Krupková, Dominika (referee)
Title: Effect of caffeine on local isometric performance of fingers in sport climbers. Targets: The aim of this study was to investigate whether caffeine affects local isometric finger flexor performance in sport climbers during a 4 minute all-out test and the maximal force test. Methods: 12 climbers participated in the testing during 3 visits to the LSM laboratory at the UK FTVS. During each visit, they completed a maximal strength test, a force gradient and an all-out test on a specific dynamometer. During the second and third testing we randomly administered caffeine or a placebo to the climbers and monitored whether there was a change in performance. Results: The average maximal force during the initial measurement was 48.8 kg (σ = 12.5 kg), with caffeine supplementation the average maximal force increased to 48.9 kg (σ = 11.5 kg). The average total work during the initial measurement was 3573.3 kg.s (σ = 810.2 kg.s), with caffeine supplementation there was an increase to 3700.8 kg.s (σ = 865.7 kg.s). The average work performed above critical strength during the initial measurement was 1242 kg.s (σ = 726 kg.s), with caffeine supplementation there was a decrease to 1215.2 kg.s (σ = 456.1 kg.s). The average critical force during the initial measurement was 15 kg (σ = 5.9 kg), increasing to 15.9...
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The popularity growth of sport climbing demonstrated on media coverage of Adam Ondra
Hübsch, Dan ; Trunečka, Ondřej (advisor) ; Turková, Kateřina (referee)
The bachelor thesis deals with the transformation of the reporting on sport climbing by three major Czech sports news sites Sport.cz, iSport.cz, and the sports section of iDNES.cz demonstrated on media coverage of the Czech climber Adam Ondra - a multiple medalist from the world and European championships, an Olympic participant, and the first person to climb the highest difficulty route ever achieved - considered to be the current best climber in the world. The theoretical part of the thesis encompasses, in addition to the profile of the observed athlete, the concept of gatekeeping and the related theory of news values which are subsequently applied to sports media and used in the analytical part. The thesis aims to capture the development associated with the transformation of reporting on Adam Ondra, and thus, on sport climbing as well. The purpose of the thesis is based on the hypothesis that the number of published articles is going to increase during the period under review due to Ondra's achievements. And that is going to be proven.
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Effect of caffeine supplementation on force gradient in forearm flexors
Běhounek, Michal ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Krupková, Dominika (referee)
Title: Effect of caffeine on rate of force development of finger flexors Objectives: The goal of this study is to assess the effect of caffeine on rate of force development of finger flexors. Methods: 10 hobby sport climbers (7 men, 3 women in age 20-34 years) during 3 visits of laboratory submit specific test to evaluate rate of force development of finger flexors. First measurement was the control one, in other two they were suplement by amout of 5mg/kg caffeine or placebo, in random order. The participants were measurement also for maximal strengh and and 4minutes all-out test. Results: Maximal speed of contraction in control measurement was in average 170,1 ± 54,3 kg/s. After suplementation of caffeine the average rises up to 190,9 ± 43,3 kg/s. The placebo average value was 156,9 ± 60,9 kg/s. Paired T-test does not confirm any significant differences between control measurement and measurement after caffeine suplementation. Conclusion: Results shown that caffeine does not affect the rate of force development of finger flexors. Key words: sport climbing, rate of force development (RFD), climbing dynamometer
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Effectivity of localized and whole-body active recovery strategies after exhaustive isometric finger flexor performance
Sechterová, Hana ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčková, Helena (referee)
Author: Title: Objectives: Methods: Results: Bc. Hana Sechterová Effectivity of localized and whole-body active recovery strategies after exhaustive isometric finger flexor performance Determine the effect of localized and whole-body active recovery on repeated exhaustive isometric performance of fingers flexors. Determine the effect of systemic and muscle oxygen kinetics on level of recovery of fingers flexors during two types of active recovery. 7 men (age 31,3 ± 8,3) and 6 women (age 30,7 ± 8,1) underwent tests of systemic and muscle oxygen kinetics, then repeated intermitent isometric contractions of fingers flexors until exhaustion in three visits. The randomly chosen type of active recovery (with global enagaging of muscles, with isolated engaging of fingers flexors) was applied among tests until exhaustion. The performance of fingers flexors until exhaustion was measured in the intermitent test (8 s contraction, 2 s relaxation). Systemic oxygen kinetics (VO2max) was measured by using maximal oxygen consumption and ventilatory anaerobic threshold (VT2). Muscle oxygen kinetics was measured by using infrared spectroscopy. The relationship among systemic and muscle oxygen kinetics and decrease of fingers flexors performance until exhaustion was calculated using the Pearson correlation...
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Possibilities of compensatory exercise in sport climbing
POLÁKOVÁ, Eliška
This bachelor thesis is about the possibilities of compensatory exercise in sport climbing. It is focused on muscle imbalance, stereotypical movements and the impact of compensatory exercise on the performance of the participants of the study. The main goal of this thesis is to create a proposal of compensatory exercises which should reduce muscle imbalances. The next goal is to describe the impact of these exercises on the participants performances. This thesis is divided into a theoretical and a practical part. The theoretical part is briefly describing climbing, its categories, the ranking of performance in this sport and biomechanics of climbing. The next chapters are about epidemiology of sport climbing injuries and muscle imbalance. After that there is a chapter focused on compensatory exercise, its categories, goals and principles. The practical part contains the methodology which was made in form of a qualitative research. Tha data from this research was processed into individual case reports. 3 people participated in this study. A semistructured interview within the anamnesis and a kinesiological examination were used to gather the data for this study. After that a unit of compensatory exercises was designed. The final examination was performed after aproximately 2 months and it is desribed in the results section. This thesis can be used as an inspiration for compensatory exercise for climbers. It can also be useful to coaches of childrens or adults and to general public interested in this topic.
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