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Flexor tendon pulley lesion as a most frequent injury in sport climbing
Čížková, Michaela ; Maršáková, Kateřina (advisor) ; Nováková, Tereza (referee)
Title: Flexor tendon pulley lesion as a most frequent injury in sport climbing Specification of the problem: This thesis is focused on the most frequent injury of the hand in sport climbing. It describes the mechanism of the injury and possibilities of conservative and surgical treatment according to the given guidelines in dependence on its relevance. Objectives: The aim of this thesis is the literary review of accessible literary resources from the field of anatomy, kinesiology and biomechanics of the hand and flexor tendon pulley in connection with a sport activity. Furthermore it is aimed on an analysis why is the flexor tendon pulley injury the most frequent injury in sport climbing, and on methods how to treat this injury in the most effective way from the beginning till the return to the full performance based on therapeutic guidelines created by Dr. Schöffl nad Dr. Hochholzer. This thesis should serve as a therapeutic manual for the Czech sport climbers suffering from this type of injury, which is generally very often underestimated and not treated sufficiently. Methods: This diploma thesis has descriptively-analytical character and is structured as a literary review. Keywords: tendon pulley, hand, sport climbing, physiotherapy, conservative treatment
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Effect of arm position on finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers
Kodejška, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Strejcová, Barbora (referee)
Title: Effect of arm position on finger flexor strength in sport climbers Objectives: The main purpose of this study was to assess the effect of arm position on finger flexor strength in sport climbers. Methods: Twenty-one women (age 24,5 ± 2,7 years, body weight 59,5 ± 8,3 kg, height 166,4 ± 6 cm) and twenty-five men (age 26,9 ± 5,3 years, body weight 71,7 ± 7,7 kg, height 177,2 ± 5,3 cm) volunteered to be a part of the study. The RP performance varied from the 3rd to 10th degree UIAA (Union International des Assocoation d'Alpinisme) scale. A specially manufactured tool was used to measure the finger flexor force with different positions of an arm. During the study, measurements were taken as the arm was adjusted into four different positions: Handgrip (0ř shoulder and elbow in full extension), Flexion90 (90ř shoulder flexion and external rotation of 45ř and the elbow in 90ř flexion supported by a board), Flexion130 (the arm 130ř abduction and elbow flexion 50ř) and Flexion180 (180ř shoulder flexion and elbow in full extension). The open grip was used for all positions, except for the Handgrip position where the thumb was in opposition. Results: The highest relation between the relative strength and RP climbing performance was found in the Flexion130 (r = 0,81) in women and in Flexion180 (r =...
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Influence of dynamic and static warm-up on muscle strength in climbers.
Formánková, Dita ; Vomáčková, Helena (advisor) ; Nováková, Tereza (referee)
Title Influence of dynamic and static warm-up on muscle strength in climbers. Objective The aim of the thesis is to assess the influence of dynamic warm-up with Thera-Band and static stretching on maximal muscle strength and its time parameters of finger flexors in dominant upper extremity in climbers. Methods Eight active climbers participated in this testing (age 32.4 ± 5.5, body weight 69.4 ± 6.5, height 176 ± 6.4). Actual performance RP was according to the French scale ranging 6b to 8a. Probands' measurements proceeded in three different days. After a specific warm-up on "boulder wall" and static stretching and dynamic warm-up with Thera-Band without stretching, there was maximal muscle strength of fingers flexors on dominant (preferred) upper limb measured by using a specific climbing test on hangboard. The second measurement assessed maximal strength of finger flexors muscle and its time parameters while proceeding of the maximum hand-grip using a hand dynamometer. Results In the experiment, none of the hypotheses came to be confirmed. There was no significant influence of static stretching and dynamic warm-up with Thera-Band on maximal muscle strength of finger flexors and the time parameters in climbers. Conclusion Despite the failure to prove the influence of the static stretching and...
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Czech terminological mountainneering and sport climbing dictionary
Jesenský, Ondřej ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Turčová, Ivana (referee)
Title: Czech terminological mountaineering and sport climbing dictionnary. Goals: Create Czech terminological mountaineering a sport climbing dictionnary. Method: Searches primary and secondary literature. In the first case it was published dictionaries, mountaineering and climbing guides, studies and grammars. In the second case it was a popular publications, monographs important mountaineers and climbers, magazines and websites. Results and conclusion: We have created Czech terminological mountaineering and sport climbing dictionnary with about a thousands lexical units. Words contain around one hundred borrowings from foreign languages, especially English (anglicisms), German (germanisms) and French (galicisms). Most often, the terminology in mountainneering and sport climbing forms deriving, namely the most suffix derivation. Dominant trend in the vocablulary of mountaineering and sport climbing generally increase the amount of borrowed words, especially form english. We consider it a serious problem that has been created bilingual dictionaries from this area before being released Czech terminological mountaineering and sport climbing dictionnary. Key words: Climbing, sport climbing, terminology.
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Development of climbing scales in the Lake District, in Saxony and in Fontainebleau.
Jesenský, Ondřej ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Development of climbing scales in the Lake District, in Saxony and in Fontainebleau. Goals: Assess the comprehensive development of climbing scales and their specifics in the Lake District, in Saxony and in Fontainebleau. Method: Research was done, using primary and secondary literature. In the first case guides to various climbing areas were used. In the second case articles from climbing magazines, professional studies, popular publications and autobiographies of the most known climbers were used. Results and conclusion: We find an analogy in the historical development of stages in the Lake District and Saxony (the easy way period, the gully and chimney period, beginning of bouldering and climbing edges, the slab and wall period). Other evidence suggests that the largest increase of new degrees have always been linked with a major climbing figure (Pete Livesey, Bernd Arnold, Jacky Godoffe). The results attest the fact that we can not observe the regular progression of climbing classification levels and this fact will certainly be valid also in the future. The results also showed a significant stagnation of increase the hardest levels especially in the Lake District and Saxony in the first half of the 20th century. Bachelor's thesis also confirmed that climbing scales are still imperfect...
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Unilateral functional asymmetry of forearm muscles in sport climbers
Palacký, Vít ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Hráský, Pavel (referee)
Title: Unilateral functional asymmetry of forearm muscles in sport climbers Objectives: The aim of the study is to evaluate the impact of experienced strain injury of forearm muscles on maximal isometric strength ratios between the flexors and extensors of the fingers in sport climbers. Methods: People were in two groups, twelve people in each of them. In the first group were the climbers after the strain injuries of forearm muscles (earlier than in last 3 months). In the second group were the climbers without these injuries. The dynamometer MIE Medical in Laboratory of sport motoric FTVS UK was used for the method. The maximal value of isometric strength of flexors and extensors of the fingers was measured. For the analysis of the results was used the unpaired t-test for unequal sample sizes with equal variances. Results: The climbers with experienced forearm muscle injury had statistically not significant higher maximal isometric strength ratios between flexors and extensors of the fingers. Higher values of maximal isometric strength of finger flexor muscles were measured in climbers with injuries in anamnesis and the lower values of maximal isometric strength of finger extensor muscles. These two differences were not statistically significant too. Keywords: muscle asymmetry - isometric strength...
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Analysis of strenght training of rock climbers - campusing
Malý, Jiří ; Kračmar, Bronislav (advisor) ; Novotný, Petr (referee)
Title: Analysis of strenght training of rock climbers - campusing Objectives: The main objective of this work is to determine time and space characteristic of working muscle chains of upper body during training on campus board and climbing on vertical wall. Comparing basic exercise by measuring EMG signal in combination with cinematographic analysis synchronized with video record, to analyse coordination markers of muscle work in selected area of movement system. Methods: In our thesis we used a method of analysis and a method of comparison. We apllied the method of analysis in research of campusing movement and the method of comparison in comparing the basic climbing movement and basic campusing. Results: It is possible to define campusing as movement in vertical axis, which is executed by three times faster muscle chains activation compared to basic climbing on vertical wall. Movement is realized by upper limbs, by changing positions of one point holding position and two point holding position. In both activities measured muscles are wireing in similar mode, during campusing the musculus pectoralis major and the musculus triceps brachii are faster in start of their activity compared to climbing on vertical wall. Keywords: sport climbing, muscle chains, electromyography, campusing
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The validity of climbing specific tests to the climbling performance
Řehoř, Marek ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Strejcová, Barbora (referee)
Name The validity of specific tests of flexibility toward climbing performance Goal To attest the validity of specific tests of flexibility in climbing Method 202 subjects were measured, of this number 136 were men 176,8 cm ± 8,9 cm tall and weighing in at 68,9 kg ± 12,0 kg and 66 were women 168,2 cm ± 15,2 cm tall and weighing in at 62,8 kg ± 13,1 kg. Specific flexibility was measured through three tests: bent knee foot raise test, straight knee foot raise test and foot loading test. The degree of validity of tests has been expressed by the correlation between the climbing performance and the results of the specific flexibility tests. Results All the tests were showing medium dependence to the climbing performance with the correlating coefficient values being: bent knee foot raise test r=0,49, foot loading test r=0,49 straight knee foot raise test r=0,44. These correlating coefficients were calculated from the relative values of test results by averaging the left and right foot results and dividing the resulting number by the height of the subject. Summary Tests used are a suitable indicator of climbing specific flexibility. Keywords Validity, flexibility, sport climbing
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