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Evaluation of the impact of sport climbing in the locomotor system, focusing on the lumbar spine
Kříhová, Jana ; Pavlů, Dagmar (advisor) ; Pánek, David (referee)
Evidenční list Souhlasím se zapůjčením své diplomové práce ke studijním účelům. Uživatel svým podpisem stvrzuje, že tuto diplomovou práci použil ke studiu a prohlašuje, že ji uvede mezi použitými prameny. Jméno a příjmení: Fakulta / katedra: Datum vypůjčení: Podpis: ______________________________________________________________________ ABSTRAKT Název: Zhodnocení vlivu sportovního lezení na pohybový aparát se zaměřením na bederní páteř Cíle práce: Cílem práce je zhodnotit vliv sportovního lezení na pohybový aparát člověka s užším zaměřením na oblast bederní páteře pomocí předem stanovených testů a vyšetření orientujících se na bederní část axiálního systému u skupiny lezců a nelezců. Dílčím cílem je teoretické zpracování problematiky sportovního lezení, bederní páteře a shrnutí vlivu sportovního lezení na pohybový aparát. Metoda řešení: Nejprve byla provedena rešerše literatury týkající se problematiky sportovního lezení a bederní páteře. Poté byla na skupině dvaceti lezců a kontrolní skupině dvaceti nelezců provedena komparativní studie, během které bylo provedeno funkční vyšetření bederní páteře pomocí PBU ("pressure biofeedback unit") dle konceptu Spinální segmentální stabilizace a vyšetření pohybových stereotypů a zkrácených svalů dle Jandy. Výsledky byly statisticky zhodnoceny pomocí programu Microsoft...
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Effect of alcohol on performance in sport climbing
Šafránek, Vojtěch ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Malý, Tomáš (referee)
Name of thesis: The effect of alcohol on performance in sport climbing Abstract: The goals: The aim of this thesis is to assess the influence of alcohol on performance in sport climbing. Methods: There were six climbers (4 men a 2 women) with average age 24,8±4,5 in this study. Before the test, the first group of climbers had to drink fruit juice mixed with 0,6 ml of 100% alcohol per 1 kg of their body weight, or the fruit juice itself. 60 minutes after ingestion of alcoholic or nonalcoholic beverage, balance abilities on the pressure board, absolute hand grip strenght and specific test of speed and power endurance were measured. This measure was repeated after 48 hours, when the alcoholic beverage was given to the other group of climbers. Results: After ingestion of alcohol, there were noticed decrease in power endurance of 14, 8% and decrease in specific climbing speed of 39,7%. The absolute hand grip strenght was the same in both cases. During the measure of balance abilities, there was noticed decrease of 6 % in trajectory of pressure point at one minute standing on one leg after ingestion of alcohol. Conclusion: The alcohol had a negative impact on performance in sport climbing. We noticed no effect on maximal strenght of finger flexors and only minimal effect on balance abilities. Keywords: Alcohol,...
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Determination of climbing specific maximal oxygen uptake during climbing with increasing inclination and constant speed
Kaláb, Miloš ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title of master thesis Determination of climbing specific maximal oxygen uptake during climbing with increasing inclination and constant speed. Work objectives To review the determination of climbing specific maximal oxygen uptake during climbing with increasing inclination and constant speed. Methods Twenty six climbers with climbing ability on UIAA scale from 4th to 10th degree were participated in this study. Maximal specific oxygen uptake was measured by climbing test, to exhaustion on climbing wall, where the inclination were changed from 95ř (105ř) to 135ř every three minutes. Speed of climbing was constant on 25 movements·min-1 . After a rest, the participants went a maximal running test on treadmill. There were evaluated relationships between climbing ability, inclination and cardiopulmonary variables. Results In maximal climbing test, climbers achived plato on value 40 ± 3,5 ml·kg-1 ·min-1 , without influence on climbing ability or inclination. The climbing ability most corelated with achived inclination r = 0,89 and heart rate r = 0,41. Our study confirmed disproportional rising of heart rate against oxygen uptake. Furthermore, there was a strong relationship to be found between ventilation per 1l oxygen to RER indicating specific breathing mechanism of advanced climbers. More demanding...
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Determination of specific oxygen uptake during climbing test until exhaustion in female sport climbers
Kalábová, Monika ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Panáčková, Michaela (referee)
Title of bachelor thesis Determination of climbing specific oxygen uptake during climbing test to vita maxima of sports climbers. Aims To assess the determination of climbing specific oxygen uptake during climbing test to vita maxima of sports climbers. Methods The study involved 14 women climbers. Their climbing ability moved about since 3th to 10th degree of UIAA. Maximal oxygen uptake was measured on climbing wall, where climbers climbed the vertival wall profile (90ř) at their own pace for 3 minutes. Specific test started on 105ř profile with increased climbing speed until individual exhaustion every 3 minutes. After that, the participant went a maximal running test on treadmill. Results Climbers achieved average of specific oxygen uptake was 38,8 ± 6,6 ml·kg-1 ·min-1 in maximal climbing test in gradient 105ř and 51,5 ± 2,1 ml·kg-1 ·min-1 in maximal running test on treadmill. The climbing performance most corelated with achievement of speed r = 0,91 and oxygen uptake r = 0,75. Result values present that minimal level of specific VO2 max 45 - 50 ml·kg-1 ·min-1 is very important for climbing difficult ways. Conclusion Climbing test is suitable for controlled training status of sport climbers. Key words Sport climbing, physiology, climbing test, oxygen uptake
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Longitudinal monitoring of anthropometric and physiologic characteristic of the elite sport climber.
Šenk, Svatopluk ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Longitudinal monitoring of anthropometric and physiologic characteristic of the elite sport climber. Work objective: The work objective is monitoring and analyzing of general and the specific physical fitness factors by the world knowing climbers from the longtime aspect. Method: In the process of the longtime monitoring was used the laboratory and the field measuring and testing to reach of the determined objectives. The particular factors of the physical fitness where determined according to aerobic fitness tests (step test to "vita maxima"), power condition tests (handgrip dynamometry, bent arm hang, etc), flexibility test and kinesiology study. To complement, understanding and interpretation of some results were used questionnaire with the opened questions. Results: The elite climber (body mass has been increased from 59,3 kg - age 16,8 years to 62,0 kg - age 19.0 years, body height has been increased from 181,9 cm to 183,4 cm., body fat from 5,3 % to 6,7 %). The climbing performance RP has been increased from climbing difficulty 11+ to 12 UIAA; the results reached at the testing of force abilities (bend arm hang has been increased from 100,0 to 122,0 s; finger hang on 2,5 cm ledge slightly has been decreased from 116,6 s to 111,6 s; relative force of the upper limb, reached at mass,...
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Effect of climbing ability on energy expenditure of climbing
Kodejška, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Malý, Tomáš (referee)
The aim of the study was to evaluate the relation between climbing performance and energy demands while climbing through a specific submaximal test. The sample consisted of twenty-six climbers (age 26,8 ± 3,3 years, weight 70,6 ± 6,2 kg, height 177,6 ± 6,5 cm). Climbers were deliberately chosen so that their performance covers as much scale difficulty of UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) as possible. The performance was given by the climbers currently the highest ascent in the style of RP (Red Point). Performance of these climbers ranged between 4 to 10 degrees UIAA. Climbers were subjected to submaximal climbing test, which lasted three minutes in one slope. They moved at a constant speed of 25 movements. min-1 on climbing route, already known in advance, the slope after 3 minutes changed from 90 ř to 105 ř. VO2 (oxygen consumption), SF (heart rate) and VE (minute ventilation) significantly correlated with climbing performance of RP (90ř, VO2, r = - 0,82; SF, r = -0,66, VE, r = - 0,77; 105ř, VO2, r = - 0,84; SF, r = -0,78; VE, r = - 0,80 ). Respiratory rate during submaximal climb was about 25 breaths. min-1, which refers to a link with a climbing speed. VO2 during submaximal climbing can be used to evaluate the economy of movement. Keywords sport climbing, submaximal test,...
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Indoor climbing walls in Prague
Schwarzová, Veronika ; Kašpar, Ladislav (advisor) ; Přibyl, Ivan (referee)
This work presents the indoor climbing walls in climbing centers for the public in Prague. It creates an overview of qualitative and quantitative characteristics of indoor climbing walls in Prague. Thesis allowing ordinary users and the general public interested in climbing easier selection of the appropriate climbing wall according on their level, the safety requirements, background, but also the place of residence.
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An Electronic Guide to Rock Climbing Areas for Android Platform
Chvála, Jan ; Očenášek, Pavel (referee) ; Rychlý, Marek (advisor)
This thesis deals with the design and implementation of an information system which serves as a guide for climbing areas. This system is based on the client-server architecture. The server provides access to central database through web services. It is written in PHP programming language using the Nette Framework. The client application enables the user to create content and store it in a local database which can be synchronized with the server. It is written in Java programming language and developed for Android mobile platform. The whole system should be used as an alternative to today's common printed guides.
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Training system for clibmers
Polach, Pavel ; Sekora, Jiří (referee) ; Bubník, Karel (advisor)
The purpose of this diploma thesis was design and realisation of measuring system, enabling measuring forces between climber´s feet and holds on the climbing wall and using this measu-red values during a training of sport climber. In this thesis there are discovered possibilities about constructing this system and determina-ted basic requirements of measuring. There are also stated principles of application the strain gauges for measuring the tension. Descriptions of developping specific sensors, hardware interface and PC application are also part of this thesis. Constructed system was used for mea-suring climbers and values were analysed by using the application.
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