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Effect of caffeine on local isometric performance of finger flexors in sport climbers.
Ťuka, Jeroným ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Krupková, Dominika (referee)
Title: Effect of caffeine on local isometric performance of fingers in sport climbers. Targets: The aim of this study was to investigate whether caffeine affects local isometric finger flexor performance in sport climbers during a 4 minute all-out test and the maximal force test. Methods: 12 climbers participated in the testing during 3 visits to the LSM laboratory at the UK FTVS. During each visit, they completed a maximal strength test, a force gradient and an all-out test on a specific dynamometer. During the second and third testing we randomly administered caffeine or a placebo to the climbers and monitored whether there was a change in performance. Results: The average maximal force during the initial measurement was 48.8 kg (σ = 12.5 kg), with caffeine supplementation the average maximal force increased to 48.9 kg (σ = 11.5 kg). The average total work during the initial measurement was 3573.3 kg.s (σ = 810.2 kg.s), with caffeine supplementation there was an increase to 3700.8 kg.s (σ = 865.7 kg.s). The average work performed above critical strength during the initial measurement was 1242 kg.s (σ = 726 kg.s), with caffeine supplementation there was a decrease to 1215.2 kg.s (σ = 456.1 kg.s). The average critical force during the initial measurement was 15 kg (σ = 5.9 kg), increasing to 15.9...
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The popularity growth of sport climbing demonstrated on media coverage of Adam Ondra
Hübsch, Dan ; Trunečka, Ondřej (advisor) ; Turková, Kateřina (referee)
The bachelor thesis deals with the transformation of the reporting on sport climbing by three major Czech sports news sites Sport.cz, iSport.cz, and the sports section of iDNES.cz demonstrated on media coverage of the Czech climber Adam Ondra - a multiple medalist from the world and European championships, an Olympic participant, and the first person to climb the highest difficulty route ever achieved - considered to be the current best climber in the world. The theoretical part of the thesis encompasses, in addition to the profile of the observed athlete, the concept of gatekeeping and the related theory of news values which are subsequently applied to sports media and used in the analytical part. The thesis aims to capture the development associated with the transformation of reporting on Adam Ondra, and thus, on sport climbing as well. The purpose of the thesis is based on the hypothesis that the number of published articles is going to increase during the period under review due to Ondra's achievements. And that is going to be proven.
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Effect of caffeine supplementation on force gradient in forearm flexors
Běhounek, Michal ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Krupková, Dominika (referee)
Title: Effect of caffeine on rate of force development of finger flexors Objectives: The goal of this study is to assess the effect of caffeine on rate of force development of finger flexors. Methods: 10 hobby sport climbers (7 men, 3 women in age 20-34 years) during 3 visits of laboratory submit specific test to evaluate rate of force development of finger flexors. First measurement was the control one, in other two they were suplement by amout of 5mg/kg caffeine or placebo, in random order. The participants were measurement also for maximal strengh and and 4minutes all-out test. Results: Maximal speed of contraction in control measurement was in average 170,1 ± 54,3 kg/s. After suplementation of caffeine the average rises up to 190,9 ± 43,3 kg/s. The placebo average value was 156,9 ± 60,9 kg/s. Paired T-test does not confirm any significant differences between control measurement and measurement after caffeine suplementation. Conclusion: Results shown that caffeine does not affect the rate of force development of finger flexors. Key words: sport climbing, rate of force development (RFD), climbing dynamometer
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Effectivity of localized and whole-body active recovery strategies after exhaustive isometric finger flexor performance
Sechterová, Hana ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčková, Helena (referee)
Author: Title: Objectives: Methods: Results: Bc. Hana Sechterová Effectivity of localized and whole-body active recovery strategies after exhaustive isometric finger flexor performance Determine the effect of localized and whole-body active recovery on repeated exhaustive isometric performance of fingers flexors. Determine the effect of systemic and muscle oxygen kinetics on level of recovery of fingers flexors during two types of active recovery. 7 men (age 31,3 ± 8,3) and 6 women (age 30,7 ± 8,1) underwent tests of systemic and muscle oxygen kinetics, then repeated intermitent isometric contractions of fingers flexors until exhaustion in three visits. The randomly chosen type of active recovery (with global enagaging of muscles, with isolated engaging of fingers flexors) was applied among tests until exhaustion. The performance of fingers flexors until exhaustion was measured in the intermitent test (8 s contraction, 2 s relaxation). Systemic oxygen kinetics (VO2max) was measured by using maximal oxygen consumption and ventilatory anaerobic threshold (VT2). Muscle oxygen kinetics was measured by using infrared spectroscopy. The relationship among systemic and muscle oxygen kinetics and decrease of fingers flexors performance until exhaustion was calculated using the Pearson correlation...
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Possibilities of compensatory exercise in sport climbing
POLÁKOVÁ, Eliška
This bachelor thesis is about the possibilities of compensatory exercise in sport climbing. It is focused on muscle imbalance, stereotypical movements and the impact of compensatory exercise on the performance of the participants of the study. The main goal of this thesis is to create a proposal of compensatory exercises which should reduce muscle imbalances. The next goal is to describe the impact of these exercises on the participants performances. This thesis is divided into a theoretical and a practical part. The theoretical part is briefly describing climbing, its categories, the ranking of performance in this sport and biomechanics of climbing. The next chapters are about epidemiology of sport climbing injuries and muscle imbalance. After that there is a chapter focused on compensatory exercise, its categories, goals and principles. The practical part contains the methodology which was made in form of a qualitative research. Tha data from this research was processed into individual case reports. 3 people participated in this study. A semistructured interview within the anamnesis and a kinesiological examination were used to gather the data for this study. After that a unit of compensatory exercises was designed. The final examination was performed after aproximately 2 months and it is desribed in the results section. This thesis can be used as an inspiration for compensatory exercise for climbers. It can also be useful to coaches of childrens or adults and to general public interested in this topic.
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The impact of sport climbing on anatomic structure and functional attributes of human feet
FIKEJSOVÁ, Veronika
The theme of this bachelor´s thesis is a study of the impact of sport climbing on structure and functional characteristics of the foot. The aim of this thesis is to compare the structure and functional characteristics of the feet of people that actively pursue sport climbing with the feet of people that do not. In the theoretical part of this thesis is briefly described climbing in all of its forms including sport climbing. There are also described functional anatomy and kinesiology of the foot, including kinetics and kinematics and basic information about proprioception. In the practical part are introduced probands that participated in this study. There are two groups of five probands. One group is comprised of active sport climbers, one group of non-climbers. There are also summary and comparison of all the data and results obtained during examinations. Final characteristics of the foot of climbers are in comparison with non-climbers rather positive. It turned out that the group of climbers has better characteristics in functional attributes of the foot, strength of the foot arch and symmetry of both feet. On the other side the group of non-climbers has better outcome in the flexibility and range of motions in selected joints.
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Effect of caffeine ingestion on intemittent isometric finger flexor contractions
Doktorová, Anežka ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Bačáková, Radka (referee)
Title: Effect of caffeine on finger flexor performance in sport climbers. Objectives: The goal of this work was to assess the effect of caffeine on the performance of the finger flexors during the all-out test in sports climbers. Another goal was to determine maximal strength in measured participants. Methods: 8 climbers (7 in the age 20-25 and one 34 years old) completed 3 experimental conditions during three laboratory visits to evaluate the effect of caffeine on finger flexor performance. The first was a control measurement and then, in random order, caffeine in the amount of 5mg/kg and placebo. Participants did a maximal strength test, a force gradient test and a 4-minute all-out test. Results: The maximum force reached an average of 49,0 kg during the control measurement, the total force impulse was 3889.6 kg.s, the critical force was 16,6 kg and the fatigue index was 68 %. After caffeine supplementation, the maximum strength values changed to 50,6 kg on average, for the force impulse to 3898,5 kg.s, the critical strength reached 15,7 kg and the fatigue index 69,1 %. The standard deviation of maximal strength shifted from 9,4 kg to 9,5 kg, the total force impulse from 684,4 kg.s to 717,5 kg.s, the critical force from 4,0 kg to 5,1 kg and the index fatigue from 6,2 % to 7,4 %. Key words:...
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Effect of Wim Hof breathing on finger flexors performance during all-out test in sport climbers
Zýková, Eliška ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Hráský, Pavel (referee)
Title: The effect of Wim Hof breathing method in relation with sport climbing performance in all-out test Key words: sport climbing, hyperventilation, breathing exercise Objectives: The study is aimed to determine if there is an impact of Wim Hof breathing method on power performance of finger flexors during intermittent load. Methods: The thesis was made as an experimental study with ten volunteers, who are active sport climbers. They filled-out questionnaire and gave their consent to participate in the study. After that, they went through the all-out test of finger flexors twice. One time they did Wim Hof breathing method before their performance and one time they didn't. This succession was determined by random selection. The results of both tests were compared and assessed by Student t-test. Results: The main outcome value, work impuls, didn't vary. The impuls without previous Wim Hof breathing method was 4477 ± 14,3 kg.s and with Wim Hof breathing method 4385 ± 13,8 kg.s. There was only one outcoming value from the all-out test, which was varying on level of significance α = 5% (the repetitions of critical force). None of others 10 figures from the all-out test didn't vary. The Borg rating of perceived exertion didn't vary as well. Conclusions: This diploma thesis didn't confirm that Wim Hof...
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