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The impact of selected nodes on strength of flat slings under static load
Komorous, Miroslav ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (advisor) ; Bedaň, Jindřich (referee)
Název práce Vliv vybraných uzlů na pevnost ploché šité smyčky při statickém zatížení. Cíle práce Cílem práce je posoudit pevnost plochých šitých smyček při statickém zatížení a vliv uzlů na snížení jejich pevnosti. Metody Zpracovávaná studie je designována jako dvoufaktorový experiment, při kterém zkoumáme vliv použitých uzlů na pokles nominální pevnosti u dvou typů smyček. Měření bylo prováděno na horizontálním trhacím stroji. Byly vybrány smyčky materiálu dyneema, polyamid a nejčastěji používané uzly (vůdcovský, osmičkový a devítkový). Výsledky Větší pevnosti dosáhly smyčky materiálu Polyamid 26,0 ± 1,1 kN a pevnosti v průřezu 1,3 kN na 1 mm2 . Smyčky materiálu dyneema dosáhli pevnosti 25,1 ± 0,9 kN a pevnosti v průřezu 1,3 kN na 1 mm2 . Na smyčce materiálu polyamid nejméně snižoval pevnost vůdcovský uzel. Smyčka praskla při tažné síle 17,4 ± 0,7 kN. U dyneemy to byl uzel osmičkový s hodnotami 12,2 ± 0,8 kN. Závěr Pro použití smyček v kombinaci s uzly bychom mohli doporučit materiál polyamid, kde uzel snižuje méně nominální pevnost než u dyneemy. Klíčová slova Horolezectví, sportovní lezení, dyneema, polyamid, trhová zkouška
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Changes of the catecholamins, serotonine and lactate levels during sport climbing on a climbing wall depending on the leader climber's style of belaying
Kárníková, Kateřina ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (advisor) ; Bunc, Václav (referee)
Title: Changes of the catecholamins, serotonine and lactate levels during sport climbing on a climbing wall depending on the leader climber's style of belaying. Goals: The Goal of this thesis is to build on the bachelor thesis and develop its goals. The research is focused on a detection of blood hormonal changes before performance, right after it and after a 15- minute pacification depending on a style of a personal profile and style of belaying of the climbers. Hormonal changes have been compared during the performance on two climbing routes of the same difficulty and different styles of belaying. Methods: The randomized research sample consisted of 10 women, climbers, who climbed two routes using the OS (on sight) style on the level of maximum effort. One of the routes was climbed with clipping in protection points against the second route, which was climbed without protection points. The research was performed using a blood collection from v. brachialis and spinning off the blood plasma of the collected blood. Lactate was determined on Siemens Adria 1800 in a routine laboratory, serotonine was determined using LS-MS/MS with a gradient elution. Catecholamines were determined using LS-MS/MS with an isocratic elution. The survey composed of three psychological questionnaires (DMV, RCAI, Eysenck's...
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Assessment of the activity of the shoulder girdle muscles during static period of climbing movement
Duchačová, Alena ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Pánek, David (referee)
Title: Assessment of the activity of the shoulder girdle muscles during static period of climbing movement. Objectives: The aim of the study is to determinate the electromyographic activity of shoulder fixators during natural and corrected climbing grip. The second aim is to compare this activity between the group of climbers and nonclimbers. Methods: The research involved 6 people, 3 climbers and 3 nonclimbers. The surface electromyography had been chosen as an objectification method. Measurements were perfomed during 4 static situation with two variants (natural and corected position). We tested these muscles: m. pectoralis major, m.sternocleidomastoideus, horní, střední a dolní část svalu m.trapezius, m.serratus anterior. The average amplitude normalizated to maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) was evaluated. Results: The significantly lower average amplitude was measured for the middle trapezius (18,4 ± 8,9 % MVC) in natural position (average of all positions) than in position corrected (35,3 ± 11,8 % MVC). For the lower trapezius, the average amplitude in natural position (30,1 ± 13,8 % MVC) was measured significantly lower too than in corrected position (61,7 ± 15,4 % MVC). Conclusions: The measurement results showed that, the EMG activity of the middle and lower m. trapezius was during...
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Flexor tendon pulley lesion as a most frequent injury in sport climbing
Čížková, Michaela ; Maršáková, Kateřina (advisor) ; Nováková, Tereza (referee)
Title: Flexor tendon pulley lesion as a most frequent injury in sport climbing Specification of the problem: This thesis is focused on the most frequent injury of the hand in sport climbing. It describes the mechanism of the injury and possibilities of conservative and surgical treatment according to the given guidelines in dependence on its relevance. Objectives: The aim of this thesis is the literary review of accessible literary resources from the field of anatomy, kinesiology and biomechanics of the hand and flexor tendon pulley in connection with a sport activity. Furthermore it is aimed on an analysis why is the flexor tendon pulley injury the most frequent injury in sport climbing, and on methods how to treat this injury in the most effective way from the beginning till the return to the full performance based on therapeutic guidelines created by Dr. Schöffl nad Dr. Hochholzer. This thesis should serve as a therapeutic manual for the Czech sport climbers suffering from this type of injury, which is generally very often underestimated and not treated sufficiently. Methods: This diploma thesis has descriptively-analytical character and is structured as a literary review. Keywords: tendon pulley, hand, sport climbing, physiotherapy, conservative treatment
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Effect of arm position on finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers
Kodejška, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Strejcová, Barbora (referee)
Title: Effect of arm position on finger flexor strength in sport climbers Objectives: The main purpose of this study was to assess the effect of arm position on finger flexor strength in sport climbers. Methods: Twenty-one women (age 24,5 ± 2,7 years, body weight 59,5 ± 8,3 kg, height 166,4 ± 6 cm) and twenty-five men (age 26,9 ± 5,3 years, body weight 71,7 ± 7,7 kg, height 177,2 ± 5,3 cm) volunteered to be a part of the study. The RP performance varied from the 3rd to 10th degree UIAA (Union International des Assocoation d'Alpinisme) scale. A specially manufactured tool was used to measure the finger flexor force with different positions of an arm. During the study, measurements were taken as the arm was adjusted into four different positions: Handgrip (0ř shoulder and elbow in full extension), Flexion90 (90ř shoulder flexion and external rotation of 45ř and the elbow in 90ř flexion supported by a board), Flexion130 (the arm 130ř abduction and elbow flexion 50ř) and Flexion180 (180ř shoulder flexion and elbow in full extension). The open grip was used for all positions, except for the Handgrip position where the thumb was in opposition. Results: The highest relation between the relative strength and RP climbing performance was found in the Flexion130 (r = 0,81) in women and in Flexion180 (r =...
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Influence of dynamic and static warm-up on muscle strength in climbers.
Formánková, Dita ; Vomáčková, Helena (advisor) ; Nováková, Tereza (referee)
Title Influence of dynamic and static warm-up on muscle strength in climbers. Objective The aim of the thesis is to assess the influence of dynamic warm-up with Thera-Band and static stretching on maximal muscle strength and its time parameters of finger flexors in dominant upper extremity in climbers. Methods Eight active climbers participated in this testing (age 32.4 ± 5.5, body weight 69.4 ± 6.5, height 176 ± 6.4). Actual performance RP was according to the French scale ranging 6b to 8a. Probands' measurements proceeded in three different days. After a specific warm-up on "boulder wall" and static stretching and dynamic warm-up with Thera-Band without stretching, there was maximal muscle strength of fingers flexors on dominant (preferred) upper limb measured by using a specific climbing test on hangboard. The second measurement assessed maximal strength of finger flexors muscle and its time parameters while proceeding of the maximum hand-grip using a hand dynamometer. Results In the experiment, none of the hypotheses came to be confirmed. There was no significant influence of static stretching and dynamic warm-up with Thera-Band on maximal muscle strength of finger flexors and the time parameters in climbers. Conclusion Despite the failure to prove the influence of the static stretching and...
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Czech terminological mountainneering and sport climbing dictionary
Jesenský, Ondřej ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Turčová, Ivana (referee)
Title: Czech terminological mountaineering and sport climbing dictionnary. Goals: Create Czech terminological mountaineering a sport climbing dictionnary. Method: Searches primary and secondary literature. In the first case it was published dictionaries, mountaineering and climbing guides, studies and grammars. In the second case it was a popular publications, monographs important mountaineers and climbers, magazines and websites. Results and conclusion: We have created Czech terminological mountaineering and sport climbing dictionnary with about a thousands lexical units. Words contain around one hundred borrowings from foreign languages, especially English (anglicisms), German (germanisms) and French (galicisms). Most often, the terminology in mountainneering and sport climbing forms deriving, namely the most suffix derivation. Dominant trend in the vocablulary of mountaineering and sport climbing generally increase the amount of borrowed words, especially form english. We consider it a serious problem that has been created bilingual dictionaries from this area before being released Czech terminological mountaineering and sport climbing dictionnary. Key words: Climbing, sport climbing, terminology.
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Development of climbing scales in the Lake District, in Saxony and in Fontainebleau.
Jesenský, Ondřej ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Development of climbing scales in the Lake District, in Saxony and in Fontainebleau. Goals: Assess the comprehensive development of climbing scales and their specifics in the Lake District, in Saxony and in Fontainebleau. Method: Research was done, using primary and secondary literature. In the first case guides to various climbing areas were used. In the second case articles from climbing magazines, professional studies, popular publications and autobiographies of the most known climbers were used. Results and conclusion: We find an analogy in the historical development of stages in the Lake District and Saxony (the easy way period, the gully and chimney period, beginning of bouldering and climbing edges, the slab and wall period). Other evidence suggests that the largest increase of new degrees have always been linked with a major climbing figure (Pete Livesey, Bernd Arnold, Jacky Godoffe). The results attest the fact that we can not observe the regular progression of climbing classification levels and this fact will certainly be valid also in the future. The results also showed a significant stagnation of increase the hardest levels especially in the Lake District and Saxony in the first half of the 20th century. Bachelor's thesis also confirmed that climbing scales are still imperfect...
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Unilateral functional asymmetry of forearm muscles in sport climbers
Palacký, Vít ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Hráský, Pavel (referee)
Title: Unilateral functional asymmetry of forearm muscles in sport climbers Objectives: The aim of the study is to evaluate the impact of experienced strain injury of forearm muscles on maximal isometric strength ratios between the flexors and extensors of the fingers in sport climbers. Methods: People were in two groups, twelve people in each of them. In the first group were the climbers after the strain injuries of forearm muscles (earlier than in last 3 months). In the second group were the climbers without these injuries. The dynamometer MIE Medical in Laboratory of sport motoric FTVS UK was used for the method. The maximal value of isometric strength of flexors and extensors of the fingers was measured. For the analysis of the results was used the unpaired t-test for unequal sample sizes with equal variances. Results: The climbers with experienced forearm muscle injury had statistically not significant higher maximal isometric strength ratios between flexors and extensors of the fingers. Higher values of maximal isometric strength of finger flexor muscles were measured in climbers with injuries in anamnesis and the lower values of maximal isometric strength of finger extensor muscles. These two differences were not statistically significant too. Keywords: muscle asymmetry - isometric strength...
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