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Injuries from the chronic overload in climbers and prevention options - literature review
Hejtmánková, Veronika ; Pavlů, Dagmar (advisor) ; Vomáčková, Helena (referee)
Author: Veronika Hejtmánková Title: Injuries from the chronic overload in climbers and prevention options - literature review Objective: The aim of this thesis is to determine significant so-called biomechanic risk factors for upper extremity injuries from overload in climbers and prevention options to reduce these so-called biomechanic risk factors for upper extremity injuries from overload in climbers. Methods: This thesis is processed in form of literature review. 7 electronic databases (EBSCO, MEDLINE Complete, PEDro, PubMed, Scopus, SPORTDiscus with FullText, Web of Science) were searched using keywords. From primarily searched 1824 titles were chosen using inclusion and exclusion criteria 13 studies. Results: The most frequently addressed significant so-called biomechanic risk factor for upper extremity injury in climbers is the crimp grip. Other significant so-called biomechanic risk factors for upper extremity injury in climbers are isolated grip and dead point technique in two-handed dyno. Prevention options of these so-called biomechanic risk factors are slope grip, parallel grip, warm up with 100 cyclic climbing loads of upper extremities and in vertical jumps jump higher than is required by dead point technique. Keywords: Climbing, risk factor, overload injury, chronic injury, upper...
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Climbers on artificial walls in Prague and their socio-economic characteristics
Šafránek, Vojtěch ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Climbers on artificial walls in Prague and their socio-economic characteristics Objectives: The aim of this thesis is to explore the socioeconomic profile of indoor climbers in Prague Methods: The personal questioning was used as the method to get the information about climbers and their socioeconomic profile. There are 180 quistionnaires collected in November and December on the chosen artificial walls. Results: The interviewed climbers on the chosen artificial walls are men in 61 % and women in 39 %. 90 % of them are aged between 20 - 39. Only 24 % of the climbers devote strictly to the climbing on the artificial walls, the other 76 % do both climbing on the artificial walls and climbing on the rocks in the nature. The majority of the climbers (57 %) have permanent residence in Prague. The biggest part of the climbers prefer to climb in both winter and summer seasons 1 - 2 per week. Usually they do climbing 1 - 2 years (24 %) and 4 -5 years (20%). 21 % of the climbers do not climb during the summer season on the artificial walls at all. There are in summary 38 % of the respondents registered in Czech Mountaineering Federation. 54 % of the climbers are people who graduated from the university. The percentage of people with university degree between climbers is higher then the percentage of...
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Physiological response and physical activity during climbing wall in school age children
Kalábová, Monika ; Panáčková, Michaela (advisor) ; Strejcová, Barbora (referee)
Title of master thesis Physiological response and physical activity during climbing wall in school age children Work objectives Determinaton of specific oxygen uptake during climbing in the climbing wall in children. Methods The study involved 10 boys and 9 girls. Their climbing ability was in range 4 to 5+ degree of UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme). Maximal oxygen consumption was measured on climbing wall. The climbers climbed two routes, the first vertical profile (90ř) and second overhanging profile (110˚). The participants climbed the wall with a self-selected speed. They climbed the route twice to steady state of physiological response during climbing and to simulate real average wall (15 m). To make conditions equal, everybody had 30 s to get down and start climbing again. Results The girls achieved average of specific oxygen consumption VO2peak 37,1 ± 4,8 ml·kg- 1 ·min-1 in the vertical profile and in the overhanging profile was 40,6 ± 11,5 ml·kg- 1 ·min-1 . The boys achieved slightly higher average of specific oxygen consumption in both profile 39,1 ± 4,8 ml·kg-1 ·min-1 in the vertical profile and 42,1 ± 2,6 ml·kg-1 ·min-1 in the overhanging profile. The girls had average peak heart rate 179 ± 10 beats·min-1 in the vertical profile and boys 170 ± 14 beats·min-1 ....
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Physiological characteristics in young elite sport climbers
Přikrylová, Tereza ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Nováková, Lenka (referee)
Title: Physiological characteristics in young elite sport climbers Objectives: The aim of this work was to describe somatic and condition characteristics of young elite climbers. Methods: Seventeen young female and male climbers in the age of 13 to 19 years, with climbing ability on UIAA scale from 8th to 10th degree were participated in this study. We detected informations about age, climbing experience, volume of climbing training and actual climbing performance. Furthermore, we measured height, weight and body composition and we used the tests for measuring strength and flexibility characteristics. Results: Data of the strength and flexibility test were similar to previous studies. Result of relative grip strength was 0,75±0,04 for male and 0,68±0,08 for female. Result of the test bent-arm hang was 0,75±0,04 s for male and 0,68±0,08 s for female. Male climbers have shown very good endurance for finger hanging 78,2±13,8 s and female climbers have been still better 91,0±19,4 s. It has not confirmed any relationship between strength tests and the climbing ability(r = - 0,23) in RP and (r = -0,30) in OS. But it has found hight relationship between flexibility test - foot-loading and the climbing ability in RP (r = 0,80) and in OS (r = 0,78). Conclusions: In this study, we found that young climbers...
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The bussines plan for building a climbing centre in Velim
Váňová, Monika ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (advisor) ; Brtník, Tomáš (referee)
Title: The bussines plan for building a climbing centre in Velim Objectives: The main objective of the Bachelor thesis is to make a bussines plan for building a climbing center in Velim. The theoretical part will summarize and describe the theoretical basis for the practical part. In the practical part, I will first determine profitability from an entrepreneurial perspective in terms of costs and anticipated revenues. The first partial objective is to create individual analysis, especially analysis of competition, whereas the second partial objective is implementation of the project into the non-profit sector. Part of this objective will be the creation of a climbing club. Methods: For the theoretical analysis of the work, descriprive analysis of all sources was used. For the practical part, I used descriptive analysis of basic concepts as well as SWOT, PEST and competition analysis. It was necessary to find a suitable location and create a business plan. I also contacted the owners of some clombing centres to learn more about fundings they received, their legal forms of the business, and average visitor traffic. Results: The results will be usefull for the possible realisation of the climbing centre, be it by me or someone else. According to calculations in chapter 7, I found the wall to be...
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The use of MOXY monitor to assess finger flexor oxygenation during exhaustive climbing
Zaťková, Alžbeta ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Gajdošík, Jan (referee)
Title: Use of MOXY monitor for evaluation of oxygenation of finger flexors during incremental climbing load. Objectives: The aim of the work was to assess the dynamics of muscle oxygenation using MOXI monitor and Portamon during incremetal climbing load Methods: The test involved 19 individuals (14 male (M) and 5 female (F), age 29,5 ± 8,5 (years) M, 26,5 ± 5,7 (years) F, weight 70,2 ± 7,9 (kg) M and 58,1 ± 2,4 (kg) F, height 176,9 ± 5,6 (cm) M, 170,2 ± 1,3 (cm) F, length of climbing experience 12,1 ± 7,1 years M 9,8 ± 4 F, performance on the Union International des scale Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) 6+ to 10 M and 7 to 9 F). Climbers underwent test climbing on a climbing ergometer at submaximal load (vertical, 9 m / min) and a incremental climbing test to a subjective maximum. Tissue saturation in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) and extensor digitorum communis (EDC) was assessed by near-infrared spectroscopy with a Portamon and MOXY instrument. Results: In 5 of the 19 tested, it was not possible to determine the oxygenation breakpoint using the MOXY record. Compared to Portamon, the difference in threshold values ranged from 0-9ř. Conclusion: Due to the unclear breakpoint in oxygenation in some respondents and the small agreement with the Portamon device, MOXY cannot be used to evaluate...
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