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Analysis of strenght training of rock climbers - campusing
Malý, Jiří ; Kračmar, Bronislav (advisor) ; Novotný, Petr (referee)
Title: Analysis of strenght training of rock climbers - campusing Objectives: The main objective of this work is to determine time and space characteristic of working muscle chains of upper body during training on campus board and climbing on vertical wall. Comparing basic exercise by measuring EMG signal in combination with cinematographic analysis synchronized with video record, to analyse coordination markers of muscle work in selected area of movement system. Methods: In our thesis we used a method of analysis and a method of comparison. We apllied the method of analysis in research of campusing movement and the method of comparison in comparing the basic climbing movement and basic campusing. Results: It is possible to define campusing as movement in vertical axis, which is executed by three times faster muscle chains activation compared to basic climbing on vertical wall. Movement is realized by upper limbs, by changing positions of one point holding position and two point holding position. In both activities measured muscles are wireing in similar mode, during campusing the musculus pectoralis major and the musculus triceps brachii are faster in start of their activity compared to climbing on vertical wall. Keywords: sport climbing, muscle chains, electromyography, campusing
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Effect of the load and recovery time on a physiological response in sport rock climbers
Šimkanin, Martin ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Effect of the load and recovery time on a physiological response in sport rock climbers Objectives: The main purpose of this study was to assess the inluence of various types of climbing loads on a physiological response in sport rock climbers. Methods: Seven experienced (8 to 9+, UIAA - Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) sport climbers (age 25,4 ± 7 years, body 64,8 ± 6 kg, height 175,8 ± 5,3 cm) were subjected to climbing test until exhaustion, which involved three excercises that included various types of load: continuous, intermittent with 30s load and 30s rest periods (test 30/30) and intermittent with 90s load and 90s rest periods (test 90/90). All subjects refrained from exercising at least 48h between each testing. The monitored variables were performance of climbing steps, heart rate (HR), oxygen consumption (VO2), minute ventilation (VE), energy expenditure (EE) and blood lactate (LA). Results: Peak values of monitored variables show that a climbing intensity was similar among all tests (HRpeak 168 ± 11 to 172 ± 7 bites/min, VO2peak 35,2 ± 4,7 to 40,3 ± 5,3 ml/kg/min, LA 4,1 ± 1,1 to 4,9 ± 1,4 mmol/l). EE was in average 9,0 to 9,8 kcal. Subjects climbed longest (4min 45s ± 37s) in the test 30/30 (six climbers achieved maximum defined time 10 x 30s), whereas total...
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Flexor tendon pulley lesion as a most frequent injury in sport climbing
Čížková, Michaela ; Maršáková, Kateřina (advisor) ; Nováková, Tereza (referee)
Title: Flexor tendon pulley lesion as a most frequent injury in sport climbing Specification of the problem: This thesis is focused on the most frequent injury of the hand in sport climbing. It describes the mechanism of the injury and possibilities of conservative and surgical treatment according to the given guidelines in dependence on its relevance. Objectives: The aim of this thesis is the literary review of accessible literary resources from the field of anatomy, kinesiology and biomechanics of the hand and flexor tendon pulley in connection with a sport activity. Furthermore it is aimed on an analysis why is the flexor tendon pulley injury the most frequent injury in sport climbing, and on methods how to treat this injury in the most effective way from the beginning till the return to the full performance based on therapeutic guidelines created by Dr. Schöffl nad Dr. Hochholzer. This thesis should serve as a therapeutic manual for the Czech sport climbers suffering from this type of injury, which is generally very often underestimated and not treated sufficiently. Methods: This diploma thesis has descriptively-analytical character and is structured as a literary review. Keywords: tendon pulley, hand, sport climbing, physiotherapy, conservative treatment
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Effect of climbing activity on somatic and fitness characteristics in youth
Přikrylová, Tereza ; Panáčková, Michaela (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Effect of climbing activity on somatic and fitness characteristics in youth. Objectives: The aim of this thesis was to assess the effect of climbing activity on fitness (upper body strength) and somatic (body composition) changes in youth in real conditions. Methods: We had 91 children participating in this study, who were attending climbing course in the climbing center Praha Ruzyně. Their age was 10,4 ± 3,0 years in average and their climbing ability was on UIAA scale from 4 th to 7 th degree. We detected information about age, climbing experience, and actual climbing performance. Furthermore, we measured height, weight and body composition and we used the tests for measuring upper body strength: hand grip, bent-arm hang and finger hang. Results: Dependence between strength tests (average of three measurements) and climbing level of RP (UIAA) was not statistically confirmed. There was not found the influence of climbed meters to changes in each tests of strength. There was no change in the grip strength test in average, during the exercise intervention. In the bent-arm hang test and the finger hang test, there were significant changes that were not depending on climbing experience of children. Conclusions: In this study was not confirmed any of the above hypotheses. However, it was found...
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The validity of climbing specific tests to the climbling performance
Řehoř, Marek ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Strejcová, Barbora (referee)
Name The validity of specific tests of flexibility toward climbing performance Goal To attest the validity of specific tests of flexibility in climbing Method 202 subjects were measured, of this number 136 were men 176,8 cm ± 8,9 cm tall and weighing in at 68,9 kg ± 12,0 kg and 66 were women 168,2 cm ± 15,2 cm tall and weighing in at 62,8 kg ± 13,1 kg. Specific flexibility was measured through three tests: bent knee foot raise test, straight knee foot raise test and foot loading test. The degree of validity of tests has been expressed by the correlation between the climbing performance and the results of the specific flexibility tests. Results All the tests were showing medium dependence to the climbing performance with the correlating coefficient values being: bent knee foot raise test r=0,49, foot loading test r=0,49 straight knee foot raise test r=0,44. These correlating coefficients were calculated from the relative values of test results by averaging the left and right foot results and dividing the resulting number by the height of the subject. Summary Tests used are a suitable indicator of climbing specific flexibility. Keywords Validity, flexibility, sport climbing
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Development of climbing scales in the Lake District, in Saxony and in Fontainebleau.
Jesenský, Ondřej ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Development of climbing scales in the Lake District, in Saxony and in Fontainebleau. Goals: Assess the comprehensive development of climbing scales and their specifics in the Lake District, in Saxony and in Fontainebleau. Method: Research was done, using primary and secondary literature. In the first case guides to various climbing areas were used. In the second case articles from climbing magazines, professional studies, popular publications and autobiographies of the most known climbers were used. Results and conclusion: We find an analogy in the historical development of stages in the Lake District and Saxony (the easy way period, the gully and chimney period, beginning of bouldering and climbing edges, the slab and wall period). Other evidence suggests that the largest increase of new degrees have always been linked with a major climbing figure (Pete Livesey, Bernd Arnold, Jacky Godoffe). The results attest the fact that we can not observe the regular progression of climbing classification levels and this fact will certainly be valid also in the future. The results also showed a significant stagnation of increase the hardest levels especially in the Lake District and Saxony in the first half of the 20th century. Bachelor's thesis also confirmed that climbing scales are still imperfect...
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Changes of the catecholamins, serotonine and lactate levels during sport climbing on a climbing wall depending on the leader climber's style of belaying
Kárníková, Kateřina ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (advisor) ; Bunc, Václav (referee)
Title: Changes of the catecholamins, serotonine and lactate levels during sport climbing on a climbing wall depending on the leader climber's style of belaying. Goals: The Goal of this thesis is to build on the bachelor thesis and develop its goals. The research is focused on a detection of blood hormonal changes before performance, right after it and after a 15- minute pacification depending on a style of a personal profile and style of belaying of the climbers. Hormonal changes have been compared during the performance on two climbing routes of the same difficulty and different styles of belaying. Methods: The randomized research sample consisted of 10 women, climbers, who climbed two routes using the OS (on sight) style on the level of maximum effort. One of the routes was climbed with clipping in protection points against the second route, which was climbed without protection points. The research was performed using a blood collection from v. brachialis and spinning off the blood plasma of the collected blood. Lactate was determined on Siemens Adria 1800 in a routine laboratory, serotonine was determined using LS-MS/MS with a gradient elution. Catecholamines were determined using LS-MS/MS with an isocratic elution. The survey composed of three psychological questionnaires (DMV, RCAI, Eysenck's...
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Determination of specific oxygen uptake during climbing test until exhaustion in female sport climbers
Kalábová, Monika ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Panáčková, Michaela (referee)
Title of bachelor thesis Determination of climbing specific oxygen uptake during climbing test to vita maxima of sports climbers. Aims To assess the determination of climbing specific oxygen uptake during climbing test to vita maxima of sports climbers. Methods The study involved 14 women climbers. Their climbing ability moved about since 3th to 10th degree of UIAA. Maximal oxygen uptake was measured on climbing wall, where climbers climbed the vertival wall profile (90ř) at their own pace for 3 minutes. Specific test started on 105ř profile with increased climbing speed until individual exhaustion every 3 minutes. After that, the participant went a maximal running test on treadmill. Results Climbers achieved average of specific oxygen uptake was 38,8 ± 6,6 ml·kg-1 ·min-1 in maximal climbing test in gradient 105ř and 51,5 ± 2,1 ml·kg-1 ·min-1 in maximal running test on treadmill. The climbing performance most corelated with achievement of speed r = 0,91 and oxygen uptake r = 0,75. Result values present that minimal level of specific VO2 max 45 - 50 ml·kg-1 ·min-1 is very important for climbing difficult ways. Conclusion Climbing test is suitable for controlled training status of sport climbers. Key words Sport climbing, physiology, climbing test, oxygen uptake
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Time characteristics of workload during climbing the same route on a climbing wall and treadwall
Maťochová, Šárka ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Gajdošík, Jan (referee)
Title: Time characteristics of the load when climbing the same path on an artificial wall and on a climbing ergometer Objectives: The aim of this work was to assess the time characteristics of the grip when climbing on a climbing wall and on climbing ergometer and to compare these results. Methods: Twenty female participants were divided according to their performance into two groups. Two identical routes were climbed- one on a climbing ergometer, the other on an artificial climbing wall. Climbing routes were 18 m long and were rated Grade 7 on the IRCRA scale. There were 45 grips used in total, the starting hand grip was 1.5 m above the ground. The profile of the climbed route was perpendicular (90 ř). The task was to climb the route in the specified time. Data were collected by making a video recording of the movement on the climbing wall and the climbing ergometer. To determine the time characteristics, video recordings were analyzed in Dartfish 10 software and the duration of the static and dynamic phases were assessed. Results: The total time of climbing on the ergometer was 258.0 ± 16.1 s for less advanced, 263.8 ± 4.4 s for more advanced. The total time for wall climbing was 273.4 ± 22.9 s in the less advanced group and 259.5 ± 18.4 s in the more advanced group. The mean time of static...
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