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The effect of muscle relaxation time during intermittent isometric contractions on finger flexors oxygenation
Fílová, Veronika ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčková, Helena (referee)
Author: Bc. Veronika Fílová Supervisor: doc. Jiří Baláš, Ph.D. Title: The effect of muscle relaxation time during intermittent isometric contractions on finger flexors oxygenation Objectives: The main aim of this thesis is to evaluate the effect of recovery time during intermittent isometric contractions of the finger flexors on the overall performance and oxygenation of the flexor digitorum profundus muscle in climbers of different performance categories. Methods: 27 climbers were divided into two groups according to current climbing performance (red point (RP) more and less than 7 on the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) scale). Group No. 1 consisted of 7 men and 6 women with an average performance of 5+/6- on the UIAA scale with an average climbing experience of 4.2 years. Group No. 2 consisted of 7 women and 7 men with an average performance of 8- on the UIAA scale with an average climbing experience of 11.2 years. All climbers completed 4 measurements on a 1D-SAC (Spacelab, Sofia, Bulgaria) climbing dynamometer with simultaneous data measurement using Portamon (Artinis Medical Systems, Einsteinweg, Netherlands) near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS). During the first visit, the maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) of the finger flexors and the sustained contraction of the...
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Effect of caffeine ingestion on intemittent isometric finger flexor contractions
Doktorová, Anežka ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Bačáková, Radka (referee)
Title: Effect of caffeine on finger flexor performance in sport climbers. Objectives: The goal of this work was to assess the effect of caffeine on the performance of the finger flexors during the all-out test in sports climbers. Another goal was to determine maximal strength in measured participants. Methods: 8 climbers (7 in the age 20-25 and one 34 years old) completed 3 experimental conditions during three laboratory visits to evaluate the effect of caffeine on finger flexor performance. The first was a control measurement and then, in random order, caffeine in the amount of 5mg/kg and placebo. Participants did a maximal strength test, a force gradient test and a 4-minute all-out test. Results: The maximum force reached an average of 49,0 kg during the control measurement, the total force impulse was 3889.6 kg.s, the critical force was 16,6 kg and the fatigue index was 68 %. After caffeine supplementation, the maximum strength values changed to 50,6 kg on average, for the force impulse to 3898,5 kg.s, the critical strength reached 15,7 kg and the fatigue index 69,1 %. The standard deviation of maximal strength shifted from 9,4 kg to 9,5 kg, the total force impulse from 684,4 kg.s to 717,5 kg.s, the critical force from 4,0 kg to 5,1 kg and the index fatigue from 6,2 % to 7,4 %. Key words:...
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Physiological responses of walking on high obstacle
Zíková, Kateřina ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Bunc, Václav (referee)
Title: Physiological responses of walking on high obstacles Objectives: The aim of this thesis was to determine the effect of height on the physiological response of the organism when crossing an obstacle. Methods: In this experimental study, the energy demand of crossing an obstacle was assessed using the method of indirect calorimetry. 27 probands were crossing a low obstacle for 4 minutes and an high obstacle for 4 minutes, the monitored parameters were heart rate (HR), minute ventilation (VE), oxygen consumption (VO2), respiratory rate (RR), tidal volume (VT) Results: Crossing high obstacle raised physiological response compared to crossing low obstacle. VE parameter increased by an average of 87%. VO2 increased by 70%, RR by 39%, HR by 33%, VT by 27%. Conclusion: Walking high above the ground reflects the subjectively perceived risk with a physiological response. The height of the obstacle, which subjectively perceived risk, increases the metabolic demand of walking by 2/3. Kewords: balance, walking high above the ground, stress, energy expenditure
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Effect of local and complex recovery strategies on repeated isometric finger flexor performance
Krajčoviechová, Lucia ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Krupková, Dominika (referee)
Title: Effect of local and complex active recovery on repeated isometric fingers flexors performance Objectives: Comparation of the effect of three different types of active recovery on isometric performance of fingers flexors. Methods: The study was participated by 6 men (age 32,5± 8,9) and 2 women (age 30 and 42), who underwent three randomly chosen types of active recovery (with isolated engaging of upper extremities - HK, with isolated engaging of lower extremities - DK, with engaging of upper extremities lower extremities - HDK) during three visits with at least 48 hour gap. Their performance was measured with the help of alternate exercise (8 sec exercise/2 sec break). Exercise was repeated three times and during the break between exercises was applied one regeneration method. Results: The study shows that active recovery type DK is the most advantageous in comparison with active recovery type HK and HDK when talking about repeated performance of fingers until exhaustion. Time of the second performance decreased by ↓4,5 % and the third performance decreased by ↓15,7 % in comparison with the first performance with the apply of regeneration type DK. Time of the second performance decreased by ↓10,3 % and the third performance decreased by ↓26,2 % in comparison with the first performance with...
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Effect of Wim Hof breathing on finger flexors performance during all-out test in sport climbers
Zýková, Eliška ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Hráský, Pavel (referee)
Title: The effect of Wim Hof breathing method in relation with sport climbing performance in all-out test Key words: sport climbing, hyperventilation, breathing exercise Objectives: The study is aimed to determine if there is an impact of Wim Hof breathing method on power performance of finger flexors during intermittent load. Methods: The thesis was made as an experimental study with ten volunteers, who are active sport climbers. They filled-out questionnaire and gave their consent to participate in the study. After that, they went through the all-out test of finger flexors twice. One time they did Wim Hof breathing method before their performance and one time they didn't. This succession was determined by random selection. The results of both tests were compared and assessed by Student t-test. Results: The main outcome value, work impuls, didn't vary. The impuls without previous Wim Hof breathing method was 4477 ± 14,3 kg.s and with Wim Hof breathing method 4385 ± 13,8 kg.s. There was only one outcoming value from the all-out test, which was varying on level of significance α = 5% (the repetitions of critical force). None of others 10 figures from the all-out test didn't vary. The Borg rating of perceived exertion didn't vary as well. Conclusions: This diploma thesis didn't confirm that Wim Hof...
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Effect of pre-cooling on climbing performance in heat
Knap, Roman ; Kodejška, Jan (advisor) ; Baláš, Jiří (referee)
Title : The effect of local pre-exercise cooling on climbing performance in a hyperthermic environment. Objective: The aim of this work was to assess the effect of forearm precooling on climbing performance to exhaustion in a hyperthermic environment. Methods: The sample consisted of nineteen male participants aged 25 ± 6 years. The participants were selected from among the students of the University of Warsaw University of Technology according to a criterion selection (RP ≥ 6). Each participant underwent 3 laboratory visits. At each visit, he was put to the two graded tests on a climbing ergometer to local exhaustion, always using different procedures before the first and second tests (CWI15/PAS). The measured time to exhaustion (s) was used for performance evaluation. The effect of individual procedures on performance was evaluated using a paired T-test. Results: A significantly positive (P < 0.05) effect on climbing performance until exhaustion was found when using the CWI15 procedure before exercise. There was an average performance improvement (↑10.4%) compared to performance without precooling (PAS). When the CWI15 procedure was used between performances, a smaller natural decline in the second performance was found, and in most participants the CWI15 application even caused a significant...
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Verification of a 4 min all out test as a reliable indicator of sport climbers finger flexors critical force
Taušl, Pavel ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Gajdošík, Jan (referee)
Title: Verification of a 4 min all out test as a reliable indicator of sport climbers finger flexors critical force. Objectives: The aim of this study was to assess the reliability of an 4 min all-out test which determines climbers finger flexors critical force. Methods: 6 participants did a 4 minute all out test to determine their finger flexors critical force. Afterwards, they did several verification tests with +2, -2, -4 and -6 kilograms added or deducted from their crtical force for 12 minutes or until failure, where their maximal metabolic steady state should be observed based on muscle oxygenation and subjective intensity control. Results: 4 climbers have reached their maximal metabolic steady state. 2 of them reached it at 4 kilograms below their critical power and 2 of them reached it at 6 kilograms below their critical power. 2 climbers did not make another verification measurements. Conlcusion: 4 minute all-out test overestimated critical power by 26 % at a given population. Key words: spectroscopy, maximal metabolic steady state, sport climbing, climbing performance.
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The Effects of neck cooling during intermitent exercise
Čuda, Radek ; Hojka, Vladimír (advisor) ; Baláš, Jiří (referee)
Title: The Effects of neck cooling during intermitent exercise Objectives: The aim of the study was to determine effects of neck-cooling during intermitent exercise on heart rate and heart rate recovery changes, intermitent sprint performance and rating of perceived exertion. Methods: The crossover study design and MBD analysis was used. 19 healthy subjects absolved test consisted of: 4 x 2 min. repeated shuttle run test (HIMS), 1 minute recovery interval for cold pack application on the neck, repeated sprints 10 x 20 m and 2 minute recovery interval for cold pack application on the neck. Results: Neck cooling during intermitent exercise can lower heart rate and improve faster heart rate recovery. Impact on intermitent sprint performance is unclear because of missed data. The rating of perceived exertion is on the same level after neck-cooling. Keywords: neck-cooling, intermitent exercise, HIMS, HRR, MBD
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Physiological responses on standardized climbing task in sport climbers
Gajdošík, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Radvanský, Jiří (referee)
Title: Physiological responses on standardized climbing task in sport climbers Purpose: To determine the effect of height, wall angle, climbing speed and climbing ability on physiological responses in sport climbers. Methods: The study was divided into three parts. 75 sport climbers (36 female and 39 male) completed differing tests on climbing wall and motorized climbing ergometer. Perceived exertion was assessed on a scale suggested by Borg. Indirect calorimetry, venous blood samples and near-infrared spectroscopy were used to assess physiological response, hormonal response and muscle oxygen saturation, respectively. Results: Perceived exertions were higher when climbing to height as opposes to climbing low to the ground on the treadwall (+5,3%; P = 0,013; ηp 2 = 0,149) (Study 1A). The physiological response was higher on the climbing wall as opposed to the treadwall: V̇ O2 (+6%; P = 0,03; ηp 2 = 0,22), SF (+4%; P = 0,04; ηp 2 = 0,20), V̇ E (+9%; P = 0,01; ηp 2 = 0,30) a EC (+16%; P < 0,001; ηp 2 = 0,48). There was an interaction for climbing ability and post- climbing catecholamine concentration (P < 0,01, ηp 2 = 0,28) (Study 1B). With increasing climbing speed greater differences were found for V̇ O2 (P < 0,001, ηp 2 = 0,923) than for StO2 (P < 0,001, ηp 2 = 0,448). Between-subject effect...
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Climbers on artificial walls in Prague and their socio-economic characteristics
Šafránek, Vojtěch ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Climbers on artificial walls in Prague and their socio-economic characteristics Objectives: The aim of this thesis is to explore the socioeconomic profile of indoor climbers in Prague Methods: The personal questioning was used as the method to get the information about climbers and their socioeconomic profile. There are 180 quistionnaires collected in November and December on the chosen artificial walls. Results: The interviewed climbers on the chosen artificial walls are men in 61 % and women in 39 %. 90 % of them are aged between 20 - 39. Only 24 % of the climbers devote strictly to the climbing on the artificial walls, the other 76 % do both climbing on the artificial walls and climbing on the rocks in the nature. The majority of the climbers (57 %) have permanent residence in Prague. The biggest part of the climbers prefer to climb in both winter and summer seasons 1 - 2 per week. Usually they do climbing 1 - 2 years (24 %) and 4 -5 years (20%). 21 % of the climbers do not climb during the summer season on the artificial walls at all. There are in summary 38 % of the respondents registered in Czech Mountaineering Federation. 54 % of the climbers are people who graduated from the university. The percentage of people with university degree between climbers is higher then the percentage of...
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