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Effect of caffeine on local isometric performance of finger flexors in sport climbers.
Ťuka, Jeroným ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Krupková, Dominika (referee)
Title: Effect of caffeine on local isometric performance of fingers in sport climbers. Targets: The aim of this study was to investigate whether caffeine affects local isometric finger flexor performance in sport climbers during a 4 minute all-out test and the maximal force test. Methods: 12 climbers participated in the testing during 3 visits to the LSM laboratory at the UK FTVS. During each visit, they completed a maximal strength test, a force gradient and an all-out test on a specific dynamometer. During the second and third testing we randomly administered caffeine or a placebo to the climbers and monitored whether there was a change in performance. Results: The average maximal force during the initial measurement was 48.8 kg (σ = 12.5 kg), with caffeine supplementation the average maximal force increased to 48.9 kg (σ = 11.5 kg). The average total work during the initial measurement was 3573.3 kg.s (σ = 810.2 kg.s), with caffeine supplementation there was an increase to 3700.8 kg.s (σ = 865.7 kg.s). The average work performed above critical strength during the initial measurement was 1242 kg.s (σ = 726 kg.s), with caffeine supplementation there was a decrease to 1215.2 kg.s (σ = 456.1 kg.s). The average critical force during the initial measurement was 15 kg (σ = 5.9 kg), increasing to 15.9...
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Relationship of selected climbing performance parameters on artificial wall and on rocks in traditional sandstone areas
Obročníková, Anna ; Vojtíková, Lenka (advisor) ; Pádivý, Martin (referee)
Climbing in general is becoming an increasingly popular sport thanks to artificial walls. In the Czech Republic there is a large representation of traditional sandstone areas. Therefore, the aim of this study is to compare and find the difference in performance of selected parameters between climbing on artificial walls and in traditional sandstone areas. The data collection was carried out using a questionnaire sent out on Facebook. A total of 160 respondents completed the survey with an age distribution between 23 and 39 years. The extended IRCRA classification, Pearson's correlation was used to evaluate the performance, followed by the test to exclude zero correlation, mean of differences, standard deviation, coefficient of variation. The correlation and difference of maximum and comfort red pointe top rope performances on artificial wall versus performances in traditional sandstone areas were evaluated. A strong correlation was confirmed for both maximum and comfort red point climbs with a difference of at least 3 IRCRA grades, with higher difficulties achieved by climbers on the artificial wall. In top rope, a moderate relationship was confirmed with a difference of at least 2 degrees, where higher difficulties were achieved by climbers on the artificial wall.
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Differences in nutrition of Czech national team in sport climbing and competitive climbers
Kuncířová, Veronika ; Vilikus, Zdeněk (advisor) ; Petráková Doležalová, Radka (referee)
This master thesis evaluates the nutrition of Czech representation in sport climbing. The main goal is the monitoring of quantitative and qualitative composition of the Czech national team in sport climbing and comparing the results with the average group of climbers. The thesis is divided into two parts. The theoretical part deals with the morphological and functional characteristics of a sports climber. It also discusses the specific nutritional requirements related to this sport. The practical part consists of evaluation of the data, which were obtained on the basis of anthropometric measurement, short questionnaire, and five-day dietary record. Anthropometric measurements compare the body compositions of respondents. The aim of questionnaires is to evaluate the interest of individuals in nutrition and type of climbing training. Dietary records monitor the energy balance and the nutritional composition of the food. Eating records were evaluated in Nutri Pro Expert software. Results from both groups were compared with each other and also with the recommendations for the population. The purpose was to find out whether the nutrition recommendations of the Czech representation were fulfilled and also to describe the main differences in diet between top athletes and the average climbing group. The...
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Effect of climbing time and recovery time on repeated bouts of climbing performance
Šimkanin, Martin ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Panáčková, Michaela (referee)
The objective of this research was to assess continuous and intermittent training load and its influences to a rock climbing performance. Fifteen (11 M and 4 F) experienced (7- to 9 RP, UIAA) sport climbers (age 24,1 ± 2,7 years, body mass 66,4 ± 9,8 kg, height 173,1 ± 7,7 cm, HRmax 197,5 ± 3,7 beats .min-1 ) were subjected to climbing test, which involved three exercises of continuous and intermittent load. The first exercise involved 30s of climbing and 30s of passive recovery, maximum 12 repetitions. The load and recovery time in the second exercise were doubled and in the third exercise subject climbed until exhaustion. The pace of climbing was assigned 25 movements .min-1 at negative angle 135ž or 120ž, owing to their present climbing abilities. All subjects refrained from exercising at least 24h between each testing. Significant differences in performance were found between intermittent and continuous load. Climbers achieved the highest performance (165,5 ± 45,4 steps; time of climbing 6:22 ± 1:44) during intermittent exercise 1. Worse performance (135,6 ± 80,6 steps; time of climbing 5:08 ± 3:02) was noticed in the second intermittent exercise. The worst performance (53,7 ± 14,9 steps; time of climbing 2:06 ± 0:32) among of all exercises was noticed during continuous load. Mean HRmax values...
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