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Development of climbing scales in the Lake District, in Saxony and in Fontainebleau.
Jesenský, Ondřej ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Development of climbing scales in the Lake District, in Saxony and in Fontainebleau. Goals: Assess the comprehensive development of climbing scales and their specifics in the Lake District, in Saxony and in Fontainebleau. Method: Research was done, using primary and secondary literature. In the first case guides to various climbing areas were used. In the second case articles from climbing magazines, professional studies, popular publications and autobiographies of the most known climbers were used. Results and conclusion: We find an analogy in the historical development of stages in the Lake District and Saxony (the easy way period, the gully and chimney period, beginning of bouldering and climbing edges, the slab and wall period). Other evidence suggests that the largest increase of new degrees have always been linked with a major climbing figure (Pete Livesey, Bernd Arnold, Jacky Godoffe). The results attest the fact that we can not observe the regular progression of climbing classification levels and this fact will certainly be valid also in the future. The results also showed a significant stagnation of increase the hardest levels especially in the Lake District and Saxony in the first half of the 20th century. Bachelor's thesis also confirmed that climbing scales are still imperfect...
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Changes of the catecholamins, serotonine and lactate levels during sport climbing on a climbing wall depending on the leader climber's style of belaying
Kárníková, Kateřina ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (advisor) ; Bunc, Václav (referee)
Title: Changes of the catecholamins, serotonine and lactate levels during sport climbing on a climbing wall depending on the leader climber's style of belaying. Goals: The Goal of this thesis is to build on the bachelor thesis and develop its goals. The research is focused on a detection of blood hormonal changes before performance, right after it and after a 15- minute pacification depending on a style of a personal profile and style of belaying of the climbers. Hormonal changes have been compared during the performance on two climbing routes of the same difficulty and different styles of belaying. Methods: The randomized research sample consisted of 10 women, climbers, who climbed two routes using the OS (on sight) style on the level of maximum effort. One of the routes was climbed with clipping in protection points against the second route, which was climbed without protection points. The research was performed using a blood collection from v. brachialis and spinning off the blood plasma of the collected blood. Lactate was determined on Siemens Adria 1800 in a routine laboratory, serotonine was determined using LS-MS/MS with a gradient elution. Catecholamines were determined using LS-MS/MS with an isocratic elution. The survey composed of three psychological questionnaires (DMV, RCAI, Eysenck's...
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Determination of specific oxygen uptake during climbing test until exhaustion in female sport climbers
Kalábová, Monika ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Panáčková, Michaela (referee)
Title of bachelor thesis Determination of climbing specific oxygen uptake during climbing test to vita maxima of sports climbers. Aims To assess the determination of climbing specific oxygen uptake during climbing test to vita maxima of sports climbers. Methods The study involved 14 women climbers. Their climbing ability moved about since 3th to 10th degree of UIAA. Maximal oxygen uptake was measured on climbing wall, where climbers climbed the vertival wall profile (90ř) at their own pace for 3 minutes. Specific test started on 105ř profile with increased climbing speed until individual exhaustion every 3 minutes. After that, the participant went a maximal running test on treadmill. Results Climbers achieved average of specific oxygen uptake was 38,8 ± 6,6 ml·kg-1 ·min-1 in maximal climbing test in gradient 105ř and 51,5 ± 2,1 ml·kg-1 ·min-1 in maximal running test on treadmill. The climbing performance most corelated with achievement of speed r = 0,91 and oxygen uptake r = 0,75. Result values present that minimal level of specific VO2 max 45 - 50 ml·kg-1 ·min-1 is very important for climbing difficult ways. Conclusion Climbing test is suitable for controlled training status of sport climbers. Key words Sport climbing, physiology, climbing test, oxygen uptake
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Time characteristics of workload during climbing the same route on a climbing wall and treadwall
Maťochová, Šárka ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Gajdošík, Jan (referee)
Title: Time characteristics of the load when climbing the same path on an artificial wall and on a climbing ergometer Objectives: The aim of this work was to assess the time characteristics of the grip when climbing on a climbing wall and on climbing ergometer and to compare these results. Methods: Twenty female participants were divided according to their performance into two groups. Two identical routes were climbed- one on a climbing ergometer, the other on an artificial climbing wall. Climbing routes were 18 m long and were rated Grade 7 on the IRCRA scale. There were 45 grips used in total, the starting hand grip was 1.5 m above the ground. The profile of the climbed route was perpendicular (90 ř). The task was to climb the route in the specified time. Data were collected by making a video recording of the movement on the climbing wall and the climbing ergometer. To determine the time characteristics, video recordings were analyzed in Dartfish 10 software and the duration of the static and dynamic phases were assessed. Results: The total time of climbing on the ergometer was 258.0 ± 16.1 s for less advanced, 263.8 ± 4.4 s for more advanced. The total time for wall climbing was 273.4 ± 22.9 s in the less advanced group and 259.5 ± 18.4 s in the more advanced group. The mean time of static...
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Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers
Kodejška, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Stejskal, Pavel (referee) ; Radvanský, Jiří (referee)
Title: Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers Objectives: The aim of this study was to determine the effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contraction to failure in rock climbers. Methods: Thirty-two climbers (15 male and 17 female) completed three intermittent trials to failure, on a climbing-specific handgrip dynamometer, on three separate visits to the laboratory. For each visit a different recovery strategy was employed: passive recovery (PAS), cold water immersion at 8 řC (CWI 8) or 15 řC (CWI 15). The force time integral (FTI - time of contraction multiplied by the force of contraction) was determined to assess intermittent performance. The tissue saturation index (TSI) and total haemoglobin (tHb) during isometric contractions from near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) were determined to assess hemodynamic changes. Differences between repeated trials and three recovery protocols, derived parameters NIRS, were assessed using repeated measures ANOVA with Bonferroni corrections. Results: There was no significant difference between conditions after trial one. In response to the PAS recovery condition there was a 10% and 22% decrease in FTI in the second and third trials, respectively. The PAS...
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Verification of finger flexor critical force as an indicator of maximal metabolic steady state
Outrata, Ondřej ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Bílý, Milan (referee)
Title: Verification of finger flexor critical force as an indicator of maximal metabolic steady state Objectives: The aim of this work was whether the 4-minute all out test reliably determines the level of critical force Methods: 7 participants did a 4-minute all-out test to determine the critical force during intermittent isometric contraction. Then they did 2 more tests: 2kg below and 2kg above the critical force from which the maximum metabolic steady state should be observed. Results: We found that participants failed to meet the prediction of the test that means that the critical strength determined by the 4 min all-out test does not represent a metabolic steady state. Keywords: sport climbing, critical power, anaerobic threshold
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Metabolice response of indoor rock climbing and treadwall climbing
Hlaváček, Lubomír ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Gajdošík, Jan (referee)
Title: Metabolic response of indoor rock climbing and treadwall climbing Objectives: The goal of this work is to compare the differences between an indoor rock climbing and treadwall climbing in terms of the metabolic response of the organism. Methods: Forty-two climbers of three different performance levels participated in the research, who during seven days underwent in random order, separate measurements on an indoor wall and a climbing simulator at a speed of 4 m.min- 1 to a height of 19.5 meters with a slope of 90˚. The values of the metabolic response of the organism were monitored, specifically oxygen consumption (VO2), minute ventilation (VE), respiratory rate (DF), respiratory exchange ratio (RER), heart rate (HF), energy consumption (ES) and rating of perceived exertion (RPE). Results: Climbers of lower performance level were reaching average values of VO2, VE, DF, RER and ES higher than advanced climbers, both on the indoor wall and the an treadwall. In terms of average EC values, the indoor wall is more demanding for all groups (lower performance: treadwall 0.59 ± 0.07 kcal·kg-1 , indoor wall 0.69 ± 0.08 kcal·kg-1 ; intermediate: treadwall 0.57 ± 0.09 kcal·kg-1 , indoor wall 0.64 ± 0.11 kcal·kg-1 , advanced: treadwall 0.56 ± 0.08 kcal·kg-1 , indoor wall 0.62 ± 0.06 kcal·kg-1 )....
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Predictive validity of the all-out test of finger flexors for climbing performance
Štanglerová, Magdaléna ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Šteffl, Michal (referee)
Title: Predictive validity of the All- out test of finger flexors for climbing performance Objectives: The main aim of the study was to determine the predictive validity of the all-out test of finger flexors during climbing performance for competitive sport climbers in redpoint (RP), on-sight (OS), and bouldering. Methods: The work was carried out as a cross sectional study, in which the relationship among climbing performance and the results of all- out test was researched. The all-out test was implemented by a dominant hand according to the protocol on a specific climbing dynamometer 1D SAC (SpaceLAb Sofia, Bulgaria) on a 23 mm wide rung. The non parametric statistical Mann-Whitney U-test for continuous variables and chi-square test for categorical variables were used in data analysis. Spearman's rank correlation coefficient was used in the correlation analysis. A standardised Beta coefficient was calculated in linear regression models to assess the predictive validity of selected variables from the all-out test. Results: The tested group was consisted of a total of 31 mostly sport climbers aged 30.0 ± 8,6 years, of which 23 were men and 8 women. The highest statistically significant correlation among men was between OS climbing performance and the moment of force from the whole all-out test W...
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Movement economy and physiological response during differing climbing speeds in sport climbers
Podoba, Peter ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Heller, Jan (referee)
Title: Movement economy and physiological response during differing climbing speeds in sport climbers. Aims: The work aims to evaluace climbing economy and physiological responses of intermediate and advanced climbers in different climbing speeds. Methodology: 32 climbers (11 advanced men, 11 intermediate men, 10 intermediate women) performed 3 submaximal tests in treadwall at slope of 90ř at speeds 4, 6 and 9 m.min-1 . Each of the tests lasted exactly 4 minutes. Oxygen consumption (VO2), heart rate (HR), ventilation (VE), respiratory ratio (RER) and energy expenditure were monitored. Results: Advanced men reported lower energy expenditure than intermediate men in all climbing speeds (4 m.min-1 : -0,06 kcal.kg-1 , P = 0,007; 6 m.min-1 : -0,06 kcal.kg-1 P = 0,048; 9 m.min-1 : -0,07 kcal.kg-1 P = 0,022). Intermediate women reported only slightly lower energy expenditure than intermediate men (4 m.min-1 : -0,01 kcal.kg-1 P = 0,051; 6 m.min-1 : 0,06 kcal.kg-1 P = 0,091; 9 m.min-1 : -0,03 kcal.kg-1 P = 0,115). Energy expenditure was significantly lower at 4 m.min-1 than at 6 m.min-1 (-9,82 kcal, p = 0,001) and also signicantly lower at 6 m.min-1 than at 9 m.min-1 (-8,3 kcal, p = 0,001). Advanced men reported significantly lower VO2 at speeds 4 a 6 m.min-1 (- 2,2 ml.kg- 1 .min-1, P = 0,022; -3,9 ml.kg-1...
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