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Effect of Wim Hof breathing on finger flexors performance during all-out test in sport climbers
Zýková, Eliška ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Hráský, Pavel (referee)
Title: The effect of Wim Hof breathing method in relation with sport climbing performance in all-out test Key words: sport climbing, hyperventilation, breathing exercise Objectives: The study is aimed to determine if there is an impact of Wim Hof breathing method on power performance of finger flexors during intermittent load. Methods: The thesis was made as an experimental study with ten volunteers, who are active sport climbers. They filled-out questionnaire and gave their consent to participate in the study. After that, they went through the all-out test of finger flexors twice. One time they did Wim Hof breathing method before their performance and one time they didn't. This succession was determined by random selection. The results of both tests were compared and assessed by Student t-test. Results: The main outcome value, work impuls, didn't vary. The impuls without previous Wim Hof breathing method was 4477 ± 14,3 kg.s and with Wim Hof breathing method 4385 ± 13,8 kg.s. There was only one outcoming value from the all-out test, which was varying on level of significance α = 5% (the repetitions of critical force). None of others 10 figures from the all-out test didn't vary. The Borg rating of perceived exertion didn't vary as well. Conclusions: This diploma thesis didn't confirm that Wim Hof...
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Effect of pre-cooling on climbing performance in heat
Knap, Roman ; Kodejška, Jan (advisor) ; Baláš, Jiří (referee)
Title : The effect of local pre-exercise cooling on climbing performance in a hyperthermic environment. Objective: The aim of this work was to assess the effect of forearm precooling on climbing performance to exhaustion in a hyperthermic environment. Methods: The sample consisted of nineteen male participants aged 25 ± 6 years. The participants were selected from among the students of the University of Warsaw University of Technology according to a criterion selection (RP ≥ 6). Each participant underwent 3 laboratory visits. At each visit, he was put to the two graded tests on a climbing ergometer to local exhaustion, always using different procedures before the first and second tests (CWI15/PAS). The measured time to exhaustion (s) was used for performance evaluation. The effect of individual procedures on performance was evaluated using a paired T-test. Results: A significantly positive (P < 0.05) effect on climbing performance until exhaustion was found when using the CWI15 procedure before exercise. There was an average performance improvement (↑10.4%) compared to performance without precooling (PAS). When the CWI15 procedure was used between performances, a smaller natural decline in the second performance was found, and in most participants the CWI15 application even caused a significant...
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Reliability of incremental exhaustive treadwall test
Procházková, Adéla ; Kodejška, Jan (advisor) ; Busta, Jan (referee)
Title: Reliability of a graded test on a climbing ergometer until local exhaustion Aim: The aim of this work was to determine the reliability of the test to local exhaustion on a motorized rotary ergometer for sport climbers. Methods: 19 male climbers aged 24.7 ± 5.8 years, with a body weight of 74 ± 7.5 kg and a height of 178 ± 7.1 cm took part in a graded test and retest on a Climbstation rotary ergometer for two weeks. Reliability was assessed by repeated measures analysis of variance (ANOVA). Results: Statistical results showed high consistency of measurements (ICC = 0.90). Statistical significance reached P = 0.054. The detected mean measurement error was evaluated at 20.5 s and the coefficient of variation reached 6%. Conclusion: The measured reliability indicates a high reliability of the test. Based on these values, the test can be reliably applied when testing climbers in sport climbing. Key words: reliability, climbing ergometer, graded test, sport climbing
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Evaluation of the impact of sport climbing in the locomotor system, focusing on the lumbar spine
Kříhová, Jana ; Pavlů, Dagmar (advisor) ; Pánek, David (referee)
Evidenční list Souhlasím se zapůjčením své diplomové práce ke studijním účelům. Uživatel svým podpisem stvrzuje, že tuto diplomovou práci použil ke studiu a prohlašuje, že ji uvede mezi použitými prameny. Jméno a příjmení: Fakulta / katedra: Datum vypůjčení: Podpis: ______________________________________________________________________ ABSTRAKT Název: Zhodnocení vlivu sportovního lezení na pohybový aparát se zaměřením na bederní páteř Cíle práce: Cílem práce je zhodnotit vliv sportovního lezení na pohybový aparát člověka s užším zaměřením na oblast bederní páteře pomocí předem stanovených testů a vyšetření orientujících se na bederní část axiálního systému u skupiny lezců a nelezců. Dílčím cílem je teoretické zpracování problematiky sportovního lezení, bederní páteře a shrnutí vlivu sportovního lezení na pohybový aparát. Metoda řešení: Nejprve byla provedena rešerše literatury týkající se problematiky sportovního lezení a bederní páteře. Poté byla na skupině dvaceti lezců a kontrolní skupině dvaceti nelezců provedena komparativní studie, během které bylo provedeno funkční vyšetření bederní páteře pomocí PBU ("pressure biofeedback unit") dle konceptu Spinální segmentální stabilizace a vyšetření pohybových stereotypů a zkrácených svalů dle Jandy. Výsledky byly statisticky zhodnoceny pomocí programu Microsoft...
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Effect of climbing ability on energy expenditure of climbing
Kodejška, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Malý, Tomáš (referee)
The aim of the study was to evaluate the relation between climbing performance and energy demands while climbing through a specific submaximal test. The sample consisted of twenty-six climbers (age 26,8 ± 3,3 years, weight 70,6 ± 6,2 kg, height 177,6 ± 6,5 cm). Climbers were deliberately chosen so that their performance covers as much scale difficulty of UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) as possible. The performance was given by the climbers currently the highest ascent in the style of RP (Red Point). Performance of these climbers ranged between 4 to 10 degrees UIAA. Climbers were subjected to submaximal climbing test, which lasted three minutes in one slope. They moved at a constant speed of 25 movements. min-1 on climbing route, already known in advance, the slope after 3 minutes changed from 90 ř to 105 ř. VO2 (oxygen consumption), SF (heart rate) and VE (minute ventilation) significantly correlated with climbing performance of RP (90ř, VO2, r = - 0,82; SF, r = -0,66, VE, r = - 0,77; 105ř, VO2, r = - 0,84; SF, r = -0,78; VE, r = - 0,80 ). Respiratory rate during submaximal climb was about 25 breaths. min-1, which refers to a link with a climbing speed. VO2 during submaximal climbing can be used to evaluate the economy of movement. Keywords sport climbing, submaximal test,...
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Forearm muscle oxygenation during repeated isometric contractions till exhaustion
Hannsmann, Johan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Gajdošík, Jan (referee)
Title: Oxygenation of forearm muscles during repeated isometric contraction until complete exhaustion in a group of climbers. Objectives: The aim of this work is to compare tissue oxygenation of finger flexors during repeated intermittent contractions until exhaustion in a group of sport climbers. Methods: Research was made on a sample consisting of 15 men and 14 women. Climbers were tested in 3 stress parts with 20 minutes of passive rest. The stress part consisted of intermittent isometric contraction 8s:2s on 60% MVC (Maximum voluntary contraction), until exhaustion. O2 kinetics in flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) and executed work and time of exercise was measured during the whole experiment with near infra-red spectroscopy (NIRS) and custom made dynamometer. Results: Average amount of tissue saturation was around 59% before test. During exercise was minimal saturation around 35%. During rest periods was average around 62% with maximum at 82%. During contraction was deoxygenation around 8,8% in average and it didn't depend on sex or preferences of climbing discipline. Conclusion: During intermittent performance aimed on finger flexors at 60% MVC was decline of tissue saturation 24% in average. Process of deoxygenation and reoxygenation has almost no differences between sex, neither between lead...
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Longitudinal monitoring of anthropometric and physiologic characteristic of the elite sport climber.
Šenk, Svatopluk ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Longitudinal monitoring of anthropometric and physiologic characteristic of the elite sport climber. Work objective: The work objective is monitoring and analyzing of general and the specific physical fitness factors by the world knowing climbers from the longtime aspect. Method: In the process of the longtime monitoring was used the laboratory and the field measuring and testing to reach of the determined objectives. The particular factors of the physical fitness where determined according to aerobic fitness tests (step test to "vita maxima"), power condition tests (handgrip dynamometry, bent arm hang, etc), flexibility test and kinesiology study. To complement, understanding and interpretation of some results were used questionnaire with the opened questions. Results: The elite climber (body mass has been increased from 59,3 kg - age 16,8 years to 62,0 kg - age 19.0 years, body height has been increased from 181,9 cm to 183,4 cm., body fat from 5,3 % to 6,7 %). The climbing performance RP has been increased from climbing difficulty 11+ to 12 UIAA; the results reached at the testing of force abilities (bend arm hang has been increased from 100,0 to 122,0 s; finger hang on 2,5 cm ledge slightly has been decreased from 116,6 s to 111,6 s; relative force of the upper limb, reached at mass,...
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Assessment of the activity of the shoulder girdle muscles during static period of climbing movement
Duchačová, Alena ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Pánek, David (referee)
Title: Assessment of the activity of the shoulder girdle muscles during static period of climbing movement. Objectives: The aim of the study is to determinate the electromyographic activity of shoulder fixators during natural and corrected climbing grip. The second aim is to compare this activity between the group of climbers and nonclimbers. Methods: The research involved 6 people, 3 climbers and 3 nonclimbers. The surface electromyography had been chosen as an objectification method. Measurements were perfomed during 4 static situation with two variants (natural and corected position). We tested these muscles: m. pectoralis major, m.sternocleidomastoideus, horní, střední a dolní část svalu m.trapezius, m.serratus anterior. The average amplitude normalizated to maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) was evaluated. Results: The significantly lower average amplitude was measured for the middle trapezius (18,4 ± 8,9 % MVC) in natural position (average of all positions) than in position corrected (35,3 ± 11,8 % MVC). For the lower trapezius, the average amplitude in natural position (30,1 ± 13,8 % MVC) was measured significantly lower too than in corrected position (61,7 ± 15,4 % MVC). Conclusions: The measurement results showed that, the EMG activity of the middle and lower m. trapezius was during...
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Analysis of strenght training of rock climbers - campusing
Malý, Jiří ; Kračmar, Bronislav (advisor) ; Novotný, Petr (referee)
Title: Analysis of strenght training of rock climbers - campusing Objectives: The main objective of this work is to determine time and space characteristic of working muscle chains of upper body during training on campus board and climbing on vertical wall. Comparing basic exercise by measuring EMG signal in combination with cinematographic analysis synchronized with video record, to analyse coordination markers of muscle work in selected area of movement system. Methods: In our thesis we used a method of analysis and a method of comparison. We apllied the method of analysis in research of campusing movement and the method of comparison in comparing the basic climbing movement and basic campusing. Results: It is possible to define campusing as movement in vertical axis, which is executed by three times faster muscle chains activation compared to basic climbing on vertical wall. Movement is realized by upper limbs, by changing positions of one point holding position and two point holding position. In both activities measured muscles are wireing in similar mode, during campusing the musculus pectoralis major and the musculus triceps brachii are faster in start of their activity compared to climbing on vertical wall. Keywords: sport climbing, muscle chains, electromyography, campusing
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