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Reliability of incremental exhaustive treadwall test
Procházková, Adéla ; Kodejška, Jan (advisor) ; Busta, Jan (referee)
Title: Reliability of a graded test on a climbing ergometer until local exhaustion Aim: The aim of this work was to determine the reliability of the test to local exhaustion on a motorized rotary ergometer for sport climbers. Methods: 19 male climbers aged 24.7 ± 5.8 years, with a body weight of 74 ± 7.5 kg and a height of 178 ± 7.1 cm took part in a graded test and retest on a Climbstation rotary ergometer for two weeks. Reliability was assessed by repeated measures analysis of variance (ANOVA). Results: Statistical results showed high consistency of measurements (ICC = 0.90). Statistical significance reached P = 0.054. The detected mean measurement error was evaluated at 20.5 s and the coefficient of variation reached 6%. Conclusion: The measured reliability indicates a high reliability of the test. Based on these values, the test can be reliably applied when testing climbers in sport climbing. Key words: reliability, climbing ergometer, graded test, sport climbing
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Evaluation of the impact of sport climbing in the locomotor system, focusing on the lumbar spine
Kříhová, Jana ; Pavlů, Dagmar (advisor) ; Pánek, David (referee)
Evidenční list Souhlasím se zapůjčením své diplomové práce ke studijním účelům. Uživatel svým podpisem stvrzuje, že tuto diplomovou práci použil ke studiu a prohlašuje, že ji uvede mezi použitými prameny. Jméno a příjmení: Fakulta / katedra: Datum vypůjčení: Podpis: ______________________________________________________________________ ABSTRAKT Název: Zhodnocení vlivu sportovního lezení na pohybový aparát se zaměřením na bederní páteř Cíle práce: Cílem práce je zhodnotit vliv sportovního lezení na pohybový aparát člověka s užším zaměřením na oblast bederní páteře pomocí předem stanovených testů a vyšetření orientujících se na bederní část axiálního systému u skupiny lezců a nelezců. Dílčím cílem je teoretické zpracování problematiky sportovního lezení, bederní páteře a shrnutí vlivu sportovního lezení na pohybový aparát. Metoda řešení: Nejprve byla provedena rešerše literatury týkající se problematiky sportovního lezení a bederní páteře. Poté byla na skupině dvaceti lezců a kontrolní skupině dvaceti nelezců provedena komparativní studie, během které bylo provedeno funkční vyšetření bederní páteře pomocí PBU ("pressure biofeedback unit") dle konceptu Spinální segmentální stabilizace a vyšetření pohybových stereotypů a zkrácených svalů dle Jandy. Výsledky byly statisticky zhodnoceny pomocí programu Microsoft...
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Effect of climbing ability on energy expenditure of climbing
Kodejška, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Malý, Tomáš (referee)
The aim of the study was to evaluate the relation between climbing performance and energy demands while climbing through a specific submaximal test. The sample consisted of twenty-six climbers (age 26,8 ± 3,3 years, weight 70,6 ± 6,2 kg, height 177,6 ± 6,5 cm). Climbers were deliberately chosen so that their performance covers as much scale difficulty of UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) as possible. The performance was given by the climbers currently the highest ascent in the style of RP (Red Point). Performance of these climbers ranged between 4 to 10 degrees UIAA. Climbers were subjected to submaximal climbing test, which lasted three minutes in one slope. They moved at a constant speed of 25 movements. min-1 on climbing route, already known in advance, the slope after 3 minutes changed from 90 ř to 105 ř. VO2 (oxygen consumption), SF (heart rate) and VE (minute ventilation) significantly correlated with climbing performance of RP (90ř, VO2, r = - 0,82; SF, r = -0,66, VE, r = - 0,77; 105ř, VO2, r = - 0,84; SF, r = -0,78; VE, r = - 0,80 ). Respiratory rate during submaximal climb was about 25 breaths. min-1, which refers to a link with a climbing speed. VO2 during submaximal climbing can be used to evaluate the economy of movement. Keywords sport climbing, submaximal test,...
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Longitudinal monitoring of anthropometric and physiologic characteristic of the elite sport climber.
Šenk, Svatopluk ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Longitudinal monitoring of anthropometric and physiologic characteristic of the elite sport climber. Work objective: The work objective is monitoring and analyzing of general and the specific physical fitness factors by the world knowing climbers from the longtime aspect. Method: In the process of the longtime monitoring was used the laboratory and the field measuring and testing to reach of the determined objectives. The particular factors of the physical fitness where determined according to aerobic fitness tests (step test to "vita maxima"), power condition tests (handgrip dynamometry, bent arm hang, etc), flexibility test and kinesiology study. To complement, understanding and interpretation of some results were used questionnaire with the opened questions. Results: The elite climber (body mass has been increased from 59,3 kg - age 16,8 years to 62,0 kg - age 19.0 years, body height has been increased from 181,9 cm to 183,4 cm., body fat from 5,3 % to 6,7 %). The climbing performance RP has been increased from climbing difficulty 11+ to 12 UIAA; the results reached at the testing of force abilities (bend arm hang has been increased from 100,0 to 122,0 s; finger hang on 2,5 cm ledge slightly has been decreased from 116,6 s to 111,6 s; relative force of the upper limb, reached at mass,...
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Assessment of the activity of the shoulder girdle muscles during static period of climbing movement
Duchačová, Alena ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Pánek, David (referee)
Title: Assessment of the activity of the shoulder girdle muscles during static period of climbing movement. Objectives: The aim of the study is to determinate the electromyographic activity of shoulder fixators during natural and corrected climbing grip. The second aim is to compare this activity between the group of climbers and nonclimbers. Methods: The research involved 6 people, 3 climbers and 3 nonclimbers. The surface electromyography had been chosen as an objectification method. Measurements were perfomed during 4 static situation with two variants (natural and corected position). We tested these muscles: m. pectoralis major, m.sternocleidomastoideus, horní, střední a dolní část svalu m.trapezius, m.serratus anterior. The average amplitude normalizated to maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) was evaluated. Results: The significantly lower average amplitude was measured for the middle trapezius (18,4 ± 8,9 % MVC) in natural position (average of all positions) than in position corrected (35,3 ± 11,8 % MVC). For the lower trapezius, the average amplitude in natural position (30,1 ± 13,8 % MVC) was measured significantly lower too than in corrected position (61,7 ± 15,4 % MVC). Conclusions: The measurement results showed that, the EMG activity of the middle and lower m. trapezius was during...
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Analysis of strenght training of rock climbers - campusing
Malý, Jiří ; Kračmar, Bronislav (advisor) ; Novotný, Petr (referee)
Title: Analysis of strenght training of rock climbers - campusing Objectives: The main objective of this work is to determine time and space characteristic of working muscle chains of upper body during training on campus board and climbing on vertical wall. Comparing basic exercise by measuring EMG signal in combination with cinematographic analysis synchronized with video record, to analyse coordination markers of muscle work in selected area of movement system. Methods: In our thesis we used a method of analysis and a method of comparison. We apllied the method of analysis in research of campusing movement and the method of comparison in comparing the basic climbing movement and basic campusing. Results: It is possible to define campusing as movement in vertical axis, which is executed by three times faster muscle chains activation compared to basic climbing on vertical wall. Movement is realized by upper limbs, by changing positions of one point holding position and two point holding position. In both activities measured muscles are wireing in similar mode, during campusing the musculus pectoralis major and the musculus triceps brachii are faster in start of their activity compared to climbing on vertical wall. Keywords: sport climbing, muscle chains, electromyography, campusing
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Effect of the load and recovery time on a physiological response in sport rock climbers
Šimkanin, Martin ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Effect of the load and recovery time on a physiological response in sport rock climbers Objectives: The main purpose of this study was to assess the inluence of various types of climbing loads on a physiological response in sport rock climbers. Methods: Seven experienced (8 to 9+, UIAA - Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) sport climbers (age 25,4 ± 7 years, body 64,8 ± 6 kg, height 175,8 ± 5,3 cm) were subjected to climbing test until exhaustion, which involved three excercises that included various types of load: continuous, intermittent with 30s load and 30s rest periods (test 30/30) and intermittent with 90s load and 90s rest periods (test 90/90). All subjects refrained from exercising at least 48h between each testing. The monitored variables were performance of climbing steps, heart rate (HR), oxygen consumption (VO2), minute ventilation (VE), energy expenditure (EE) and blood lactate (LA). Results: Peak values of monitored variables show that a climbing intensity was similar among all tests (HRpeak 168 ± 11 to 172 ± 7 bites/min, VO2peak 35,2 ± 4,7 to 40,3 ± 5,3 ml/kg/min, LA 4,1 ± 1,1 to 4,9 ± 1,4 mmol/l). EE was in average 9,0 to 9,8 kcal. Subjects climbed longest (4min 45s ± 37s) in the test 30/30 (six climbers achieved maximum defined time 10 x 30s), whereas total...
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Flexor tendon pulley lesion as a most frequent injury in sport climbing
Čížková, Michaela ; Maršáková, Kateřina (advisor) ; Nováková, Tereza (referee)
Title: Flexor tendon pulley lesion as a most frequent injury in sport climbing Specification of the problem: This thesis is focused on the most frequent injury of the hand in sport climbing. It describes the mechanism of the injury and possibilities of conservative and surgical treatment according to the given guidelines in dependence on its relevance. Objectives: The aim of this thesis is the literary review of accessible literary resources from the field of anatomy, kinesiology and biomechanics of the hand and flexor tendon pulley in connection with a sport activity. Furthermore it is aimed on an analysis why is the flexor tendon pulley injury the most frequent injury in sport climbing, and on methods how to treat this injury in the most effective way from the beginning till the return to the full performance based on therapeutic guidelines created by Dr. Schöffl nad Dr. Hochholzer. This thesis should serve as a therapeutic manual for the Czech sport climbers suffering from this type of injury, which is generally very often underestimated and not treated sufficiently. Methods: This diploma thesis has descriptively-analytical character and is structured as a literary review. Keywords: tendon pulley, hand, sport climbing, physiotherapy, conservative treatment
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Effect of climbing activity on somatic and fitness characteristics in youth
Přikrylová, Tereza ; Panáčková, Michaela (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Effect of climbing activity on somatic and fitness characteristics in youth. Objectives: The aim of this thesis was to assess the effect of climbing activity on fitness (upper body strength) and somatic (body composition) changes in youth in real conditions. Methods: We had 91 children participating in this study, who were attending climbing course in the climbing center Praha Ruzyně. Their age was 10,4 ± 3,0 years in average and their climbing ability was on UIAA scale from 4 th to 7 th degree. We detected information about age, climbing experience, and actual climbing performance. Furthermore, we measured height, weight and body composition and we used the tests for measuring upper body strength: hand grip, bent-arm hang and finger hang. Results: Dependence between strength tests (average of three measurements) and climbing level of RP (UIAA) was not statistically confirmed. There was not found the influence of climbed meters to changes in each tests of strength. There was no change in the grip strength test in average, during the exercise intervention. In the bent-arm hang test and the finger hang test, there were significant changes that were not depending on climbing experience of children. Conclusions: In this study was not confirmed any of the above hypotheses. However, it was found...
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The validity of climbing specific tests to the climbling performance
Řehoř, Marek ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Strejcová, Barbora (referee)
Name The validity of specific tests of flexibility toward climbing performance Goal To attest the validity of specific tests of flexibility in climbing Method 202 subjects were measured, of this number 136 were men 176,8 cm ± 8,9 cm tall and weighing in at 68,9 kg ± 12,0 kg and 66 were women 168,2 cm ± 15,2 cm tall and weighing in at 62,8 kg ± 13,1 kg. Specific flexibility was measured through three tests: bent knee foot raise test, straight knee foot raise test and foot loading test. The degree of validity of tests has been expressed by the correlation between the climbing performance and the results of the specific flexibility tests. Results All the tests were showing medium dependence to the climbing performance with the correlating coefficient values being: bent knee foot raise test r=0,49, foot loading test r=0,49 straight knee foot raise test r=0,44. These correlating coefficients were calculated from the relative values of test results by averaging the left and right foot results and dividing the resulting number by the height of the subject. Summary Tests used are a suitable indicator of climbing specific flexibility. Keywords Validity, flexibility, sport climbing
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