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Critical power and force during continuous and intermittent contraction of finger flexors
Malečková, Lucie ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Kodejška, Jan (referee)
Title: Critical power and force during continuous and intermittent contractions of finger flexors Objectives: The aim of the study was to determine critical force of finger flexors during continuous exercise and to determine critical power at different work - relief ratios during intermittent exercise. Methods: Eight participants volunteered in the study (age 23,1 ± 1,8 years, height 172,9 ± 7,3 cm, body mass 67,1 ± 4,8 kg, climbing experience 5,4 ± 2,1 years and climbing performance from 6 to 8 on the Union International des Associations d'Alpinisme scale). Participants undertook one continuous and three intermittent handgrip contractions (work to relief ratio of 8:2, 7:3, 6:4) to failure at 60% and 40% maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) for dominant and non-dominant hand, respectively. For continuous contraction, the critical force was calculated from two exercises at 40% and 60% MVC and inversed time to failure using linear regression analysis; for intermitent contraction, the critical power was calculated from the three contraction ratios and inversed time to failure using linear regression analysis. Results: Critical force for continuous contraction was found at 20,4 ± 5,9 % MVC. The critical power for intermittent contractions was considered not to be valid and is not indicated. Conclusion:...
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Differences in nutrition of Czech national team in sport climbing and competitive climbers
Kuncířová, Veronika ; Vilikus, Zdeněk (advisor) ; Petráková Doležalová, Radka (referee)
This master thesis evaluates the nutrition of Czech representation in sport climbing. The main goal is the monitoring of quantitative and qualitative composition of the Czech national team in sport climbing and comparing the results with the average group of climbers. The thesis is divided into two parts. The theoretical part deals with the morphological and functional characteristics of a sports climber. It also discusses the specific nutritional requirements related to this sport. The practical part consists of evaluation of the data, which were obtained on the basis of anthropometric measurement, short questionnaire, and five-day dietary record. Anthropometric measurements compare the body compositions of respondents. The aim of questionnaires is to evaluate the interest of individuals in nutrition and type of climbing training. Dietary records monitor the energy balance and the nutritional composition of the food. Eating records were evaluated in Nutri Pro Expert software. Results from both groups were compared with each other and also with the recommendations for the population. The purpose was to find out whether the nutrition recommendations of the Czech representation were fulfilled and also to describe the main differences in diet between top athletes and the average climbing group. The...
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Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers
Kodejška, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Stejskal, Pavel (referee) ; Radvanský, Jiří (referee)
Title: Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers Objectives: The aim of this study was to determine the effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contraction to failure in rock climbers. Methods: Thirty-two climbers (15 male and 17 female) completed three intermittent trials to failure, on a climbing-specific handgrip dynamometer, on three separate visits to the laboratory. For each visit a different recovery strategy was employed: passive recovery (PAS), cold water immersion at 8 řC (CWI 8) or 15 řC (CWI 15). The force time integral (FTI - time of contraction multiplied by the force of contraction) was determined to assess intermittent performance. The tissue saturation index (TSI) and total haemoglobin (tHb) during isometric contractions from near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) were determined to assess hemodynamic changes. Differences between repeated trials and three recovery protocols, derived parameters NIRS, were assessed using repeated measures ANOVA with Bonferroni corrections. Results: There was no significant difference between conditions after trial one. In response to the PAS recovery condition there was a 10% and 22% decrease in FTI in the second and third trials, respectively. The PAS...
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Analysis of climbing movments
Maternová, Hedvika ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (advisor) ; Baláš, Jiří (referee)
Title: Climbing movement analysis Objecives: Determine the ratio between the static and the dynamic phase of climbing artifitial wall by video recordings analysis. Find out if climbier clipping each quickdraw is faster and more dynamic than clipping every second. Determine if the static phase is getting longer during climbing period. Methods: Research is made by video recordings analysis. Examined group is formed by 9 women. To obtain the static and the dynamic phases, time periods of hands holding and not holding wall grips are measured. Those periods are recorded in the Microsoft Excel's tables and results are stored in graphs. Keywords: sport climbing, climbing step, static phase, dynamic phase
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Interiér lezeckého centra
Strnadová, Alice
The content of this work is interior design of particular sport center. The teoretical part deals with the historical context, the specifics of the area, the condition of current competitive spaces in Czech Republic and their problems. Small portion of the work is also dedicated to inspirational centers abroad. It further discusses materials, interior design standards and furniture standards. The practical part presents the design solution of the social and the sport section and sanitary facilities. It includes a ground plan, a drawing of electrical wiring, an item plan and drawings of atypical objects.
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Effect of climbing activity on somatic and fitness characteristics in youth
Přikrylová, Tereza ; Panáčková, Michaela (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Effect of climbing activity on somatic and fitness characteristics in youth. Objectives: The aim of this thesis was to assess the effect of climbing activity on fitness (upper body strength) and somatic (body composition) changes in youth in real conditions. Methods: We had 91 children participating in this study, who were attending climbing course in the climbing center Praha Ruzyně. Their age was 10,4 ± 3,0 years in average and their climbing ability was on UIAA scale from 4 th to 7 th degree. We detected information about age, climbing experience, and actual climbing performance. Furthermore, we measured height, weight and body composition and we used the tests for measuring upper body strength: hand grip, bent-arm hang and finger hang. Results: Dependence between strength tests (average of three measurements) and climbing level of RP (UIAA) was not statistically confirmed. There was not found the influence of climbed meters to changes in each tests of strength. There was no change in the grip strength test in average, during the exercise intervention. In the bent-arm hang test and the finger hang test, there were significant changes that were not depending on climbing experience of children. Conclusions: In this study was not confirmed any of the above hypotheses. However, it was found...
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Effect of the load and recovery time on a physiological response in sport rock climbers
Šimkanin, Martin ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Effect of the load and recovery time on a physiological response in sport rock climbers Objectives: The main purpose of this study was to assess the inluence of various types of climbing loads on a physiological response in sport rock climbers. Methods: Seven experienced (8 to 9+, UIAA - Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) sport climbers (age 25,4 ± 7 years, body 64,8 ± 6 kg, height 175,8 ± 5,3 cm) were subjected to climbing test until exhaustion, which involved three excercises that included various types of load: continuous, intermittent with 30s load and 30s rest periods (test 30/30) and intermittent with 90s load and 90s rest periods (test 90/90). All subjects refrained from exercising at least 48h between each testing. The monitored variables were performance of climbing steps, heart rate (HR), oxygen consumption (VO2), minute ventilation (VE), energy expenditure (EE) and blood lactate (LA). Results: Peak values of monitored variables show that a climbing intensity was similar among all tests (HRpeak 168 ± 11 to 172 ± 7 bites/min, VO2peak 35,2 ± 4,7 to 40,3 ± 5,3 ml/kg/min, LA 4,1 ± 1,1 to 4,9 ± 1,4 mmol/l). EE was in average 9,0 to 9,8 kcal. Subjects climbed longest (4min 45s ± 37s) in the test 30/30 (six climbers achieved maximum defined time 10 x 30s), whereas total...
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The impact of selected nodes on strength of flat slings under static load
Komorous, Miroslav ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (advisor) ; Bedaň, Jindřich (referee)
Název práce Vliv vybraných uzlů na pevnost ploché šité smyčky při statickém zatížení. Cíle práce Cílem práce je posoudit pevnost plochých šitých smyček při statickém zatížení a vliv uzlů na snížení jejich pevnosti. Metody Zpracovávaná studie je designována jako dvoufaktorový experiment, při kterém zkoumáme vliv použitých uzlů na pokles nominální pevnosti u dvou typů smyček. Měření bylo prováděno na horizontálním trhacím stroji. Byly vybrány smyčky materiálu dyneema, polyamid a nejčastěji používané uzly (vůdcovský, osmičkový a devítkový). Výsledky Větší pevnosti dosáhly smyčky materiálu Polyamid 26,0 ± 1,1 kN a pevnosti v průřezu 1,3 kN na 1 mm2 . Smyčky materiálu dyneema dosáhli pevnosti 25,1 ± 0,9 kN a pevnosti v průřezu 1,3 kN na 1 mm2 . Na smyčce materiálu polyamid nejméně snižoval pevnost vůdcovský uzel. Smyčka praskla při tažné síle 17,4 ± 0,7 kN. U dyneemy to byl uzel osmičkový s hodnotami 12,2 ± 0,8 kN. Závěr Pro použití smyček v kombinaci s uzly bychom mohli doporučit materiál polyamid, kde uzel snižuje méně nominální pevnost než u dyneemy. Klíčová slova Horolezectví, sportovní lezení, dyneema, polyamid, trhová zkouška
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Changes of the catecholamins, serotonine and lactate levels during sport climbing on a climbing wall depending on the leader climber's style of belaying
Kárníková, Kateřina ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (advisor) ; Bunc, Václav (referee)
Title: Changes of the catecholamins, serotonine and lactate levels during sport climbing on a climbing wall depending on the leader climber's style of belaying. Goals: The Goal of this thesis is to build on the bachelor thesis and develop its goals. The research is focused on a detection of blood hormonal changes before performance, right after it and after a 15- minute pacification depending on a style of a personal profile and style of belaying of the climbers. Hormonal changes have been compared during the performance on two climbing routes of the same difficulty and different styles of belaying. Methods: The randomized research sample consisted of 10 women, climbers, who climbed two routes using the OS (on sight) style on the level of maximum effort. One of the routes was climbed with clipping in protection points against the second route, which was climbed without protection points. The research was performed using a blood collection from v. brachialis and spinning off the blood plasma of the collected blood. Lactate was determined on Siemens Adria 1800 in a routine laboratory, serotonine was determined using LS-MS/MS with a gradient elution. Catecholamines were determined using LS-MS/MS with an isocratic elution. The survey composed of three psychological questionnaires (DMV, RCAI, Eysenck's...
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