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Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers
Kodejška, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Stejskal, Pavel (referee) ; Radvanský, Jiří (referee)
Title: Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers Objectives: The aim of this study was to determine the effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contraction to failure in rock climbers. Methods: Thirty-two climbers (15 male and 17 female) completed three intermittent trials to failure, on a climbing-specific handgrip dynamometer, on three separate visits to the laboratory. For each visit a different recovery strategy was employed: passive recovery (PAS), cold water immersion at 8 řC (CWI 8) or 15 řC (CWI 15). The force time integral (FTI - time of contraction multiplied by the force of contraction) was determined to assess intermittent performance. The tissue saturation index (TSI) and total haemoglobin (tHb) during isometric contractions from near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) were determined to assess hemodynamic changes. Differences between repeated trials and three recovery protocols, derived parameters NIRS, were assessed using repeated measures ANOVA with Bonferroni corrections. Results: There was no significant difference between conditions after trial one. In response to the PAS recovery condition there was a 10% and 22% decrease in FTI in the second and third trials, respectively. The PAS...
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Verification of finger flexor critical force as an indicator of maximal metabolic steady state
Outrata, Ondřej ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Bílý, Milan (referee)
Title: Verification of finger flexor critical force as an indicator of maximal metabolic steady state Objectives: The aim of this work was whether the 4-minute all out test reliably determines the level of critical force Methods: 7 participants did a 4-minute all-out test to determine the critical force during intermittent isometric contraction. Then they did 2 more tests: 2kg below and 2kg above the critical force from which the maximum metabolic steady state should be observed. Results: We found that participants failed to meet the prediction of the test that means that the critical strength determined by the 4 min all-out test does not represent a metabolic steady state. Keywords: sport climbing, critical power, anaerobic threshold
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Metabolice response of indoor rock climbing and treadwall climbing
Hlaváček, Lubomír ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Gajdošík, Jan (referee)
Title: Metabolic response of indoor rock climbing and treadwall climbing Objectives: The goal of this work is to compare the differences between an indoor rock climbing and treadwall climbing in terms of the metabolic response of the organism. Methods: Forty-two climbers of three different performance levels participated in the research, who during seven days underwent in random order, separate measurements on an indoor wall and a climbing simulator at a speed of 4 m.min- 1 to a height of 19.5 meters with a slope of 90˚. The values of the metabolic response of the organism were monitored, specifically oxygen consumption (VO2), minute ventilation (VE), respiratory rate (DF), respiratory exchange ratio (RER), heart rate (HF), energy consumption (ES) and rating of perceived exertion (RPE). Results: Climbers of lower performance level were reaching average values of VO2, VE, DF, RER and ES higher than advanced climbers, both on the indoor wall and the an treadwall. In terms of average EC values, the indoor wall is more demanding for all groups (lower performance: treadwall 0.59 ± 0.07 kcal·kg-1 , indoor wall 0.69 ± 0.08 kcal·kg-1 ; intermediate: treadwall 0.57 ± 0.09 kcal·kg-1 , indoor wall 0.64 ± 0.11 kcal·kg-1 , advanced: treadwall 0.56 ± 0.08 kcal·kg-1 , indoor wall 0.62 ± 0.06 kcal·kg-1 )....
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Predictive validity of the all-out test of finger flexors for climbing performance
Štanglerová, Magdaléna ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Šteffl, Michal (referee)
Title: Predictive validity of the All- out test of finger flexors for climbing performance Objectives: The main aim of the study was to determine the predictive validity of the all-out test of finger flexors during climbing performance for competitive sport climbers in redpoint (RP), on-sight (OS), and bouldering. Methods: The work was carried out as a cross sectional study, in which the relationship among climbing performance and the results of all- out test was researched. The all-out test was implemented by a dominant hand according to the protocol on a specific climbing dynamometer 1D SAC (SpaceLAb Sofia, Bulgaria) on a 23 mm wide rung. The non parametric statistical Mann-Whitney U-test for continuous variables and chi-square test for categorical variables were used in data analysis. Spearman's rank correlation coefficient was used in the correlation analysis. A standardised Beta coefficient was calculated in linear regression models to assess the predictive validity of selected variables from the all-out test. Results: The tested group was consisted of a total of 31 mostly sport climbers aged 30.0 ± 8,6 years, of which 23 were men and 8 women. The highest statistically significant correlation among men was between OS climbing performance and the moment of force from the whole all-out test W...
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Movement economy and physiological response during differing climbing speeds in sport climbers
Podoba, Peter ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Heller, Jan (referee)
Title: Movement economy and physiological response during differing climbing speeds in sport climbers. Aims: The work aims to evaluace climbing economy and physiological responses of intermediate and advanced climbers in different climbing speeds. Methodology: 32 climbers (11 advanced men, 11 intermediate men, 10 intermediate women) performed 3 submaximal tests in treadwall at slope of 90ř at speeds 4, 6 and 9 m.min-1 . Each of the tests lasted exactly 4 minutes. Oxygen consumption (VO2), heart rate (HR), ventilation (VE), respiratory ratio (RER) and energy expenditure were monitored. Results: Advanced men reported lower energy expenditure than intermediate men in all climbing speeds (4 m.min-1 : -0,06 kcal.kg-1 , P = 0,007; 6 m.min-1 : -0,06 kcal.kg-1 P = 0,048; 9 m.min-1 : -0,07 kcal.kg-1 P = 0,022). Intermediate women reported only slightly lower energy expenditure than intermediate men (4 m.min-1 : -0,01 kcal.kg-1 P = 0,051; 6 m.min-1 : 0,06 kcal.kg-1 P = 0,091; 9 m.min-1 : -0,03 kcal.kg-1 P = 0,115). Energy expenditure was significantly lower at 4 m.min-1 than at 6 m.min-1 (-9,82 kcal, p = 0,001) and also signicantly lower at 6 m.min-1 than at 9 m.min-1 (-8,3 kcal, p = 0,001). Advanced men reported significantly lower VO2 at speeds 4 a 6 m.min-1 (- 2,2 ml.kg- 1 .min-1, P = 0,022; -3,9 ml.kg-1...
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Critical power and force during continuous and intermittent contraction of finger flexors
Malečková, Lucie ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Kodejška, Jan (referee)
Title: Critical power and force during continuous and intermittent contractions of finger flexors Objectives: The aim of the study was to determine critical force of finger flexors during continuous exercise and to determine critical power at different work - relief ratios during intermittent exercise. Methods: Eight participants volunteered in the study (age 23,1 ± 1,8 years, height 172,9 ± 7,3 cm, body mass 67,1 ± 4,8 kg, climbing experience 5,4 ± 2,1 years and climbing performance from 6 to 8 on the Union International des Associations d'Alpinisme scale). Participants undertook one continuous and three intermittent handgrip contractions (work to relief ratio of 8:2, 7:3, 6:4) to failure at 60% and 40% maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) for dominant and non-dominant hand, respectively. For continuous contraction, the critical force was calculated from two exercises at 40% and 60% MVC and inversed time to failure using linear regression analysis; for intermitent contraction, the critical power was calculated from the three contraction ratios and inversed time to failure using linear regression analysis. Results: Critical force for continuous contraction was found at 20,4 ± 5,9 % MVC. The critical power for intermittent contractions was considered not to be valid and is not indicated. Conclusion:...
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Differences in nutrition of Czech national team in sport climbing and competitive climbers
Kuncířová, Veronika ; Vilikus, Zdeněk (advisor) ; Petráková Doležalová, Radka (referee)
This master thesis evaluates the nutrition of Czech representation in sport climbing. The main goal is the monitoring of quantitative and qualitative composition of the Czech national team in sport climbing and comparing the results with the average group of climbers. The thesis is divided into two parts. The theoretical part deals with the morphological and functional characteristics of a sports climber. It also discusses the specific nutritional requirements related to this sport. The practical part consists of evaluation of the data, which were obtained on the basis of anthropometric measurement, short questionnaire, and five-day dietary record. Anthropometric measurements compare the body compositions of respondents. The aim of questionnaires is to evaluate the interest of individuals in nutrition and type of climbing training. Dietary records monitor the energy balance and the nutritional composition of the food. Eating records were evaluated in Nutri Pro Expert software. Results from both groups were compared with each other and also with the recommendations for the population. The purpose was to find out whether the nutrition recommendations of the Czech representation were fulfilled and also to describe the main differences in diet between top athletes and the average climbing group. The...
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Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers
Kodejška, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Stejskal, Pavel (referee) ; Radvanský, Jiří (referee)
Title: Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers Objectives: The aim of this study was to determine the effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contraction to failure in rock climbers. Methods: Thirty-two climbers (15 male and 17 female) completed three intermittent trials to failure, on a climbing-specific handgrip dynamometer, on three separate visits to the laboratory. For each visit a different recovery strategy was employed: passive recovery (PAS), cold water immersion at 8 řC (CWI 8) or 15 řC (CWI 15). The force time integral (FTI - time of contraction multiplied by the force of contraction) was determined to assess intermittent performance. The tissue saturation index (TSI) and total haemoglobin (tHb) during isometric contractions from near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) were determined to assess hemodynamic changes. Differences between repeated trials and three recovery protocols, derived parameters NIRS, were assessed using repeated measures ANOVA with Bonferroni corrections. Results: There was no significant difference between conditions after trial one. In response to the PAS recovery condition there was a 10% and 22% decrease in FTI in the second and third trials, respectively. The PAS...
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Analysis of climbing movments
Maternová, Hedvika ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (advisor) ; Baláš, Jiří (referee)
Title: Climbing movement analysis Objecives: Determine the ratio between the static and the dynamic phase of climbing artifitial wall by video recordings analysis. Find out if climbier clipping each quickdraw is faster and more dynamic than clipping every second. Determine if the static phase is getting longer during climbing period. Methods: Research is made by video recordings analysis. Examined group is formed by 9 women. To obtain the static and the dynamic phases, time periods of hands holding and not holding wall grips are measured. Those periods are recorded in the Microsoft Excel's tables and results are stored in graphs. Keywords: sport climbing, climbing step, static phase, dynamic phase
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