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Effect of the load and recovery time on a physiological response in sport rock climbers
Šimkanin, Martin ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Effect of the load and recovery time on a physiological response in sport rock climbers Objectives: The main purpose of this study was to assess the inluence of various types of climbing loads on a physiological response in sport rock climbers. Methods: Seven experienced (8 to 9+, UIAA - Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) sport climbers (age 25,4 ± 7 years, body 64,8 ± 6 kg, height 175,8 ± 5,3 cm) were subjected to climbing test until exhaustion, which involved three excercises that included various types of load: continuous, intermittent with 30s load and 30s rest periods (test 30/30) and intermittent with 90s load and 90s rest periods (test 90/90). All subjects refrained from exercising at least 48h between each testing. The monitored variables were performance of climbing steps, heart rate (HR), oxygen consumption (VO2), minute ventilation (VE), energy expenditure (EE) and blood lactate (LA). Results: Peak values of monitored variables show that a climbing intensity was similar among all tests (HRpeak 168 ± 11 to 172 ± 7 bites/min, VO2peak 35,2 ± 4,7 to 40,3 ± 5,3 ml/kg/min, LA 4,1 ± 1,1 to 4,9 ± 1,4 mmol/l). EE was in average 9,0 to 9,8 kcal. Subjects climbed longest (4min 45s ± 37s) in the test 30/30 (six climbers achieved maximum defined time 10 x 30s), whereas total...
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Effect of the load and recovery time on a physiological response in sport rock climbers
Šimkanin, Martin ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (referee)
Title: Effect of the load and recovery time on a physiological response in sport rock climbers Objectives: The main purpose of this study was to assess the inluence of various types of climbing loads on a physiological response in sport rock climbers. Methods: Seven experienced (8 to 9+, UIAA - Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) sport climbers (age 25,4 ± 7 years, body 64,8 ± 6 kg, height 175,8 ± 5,3 cm) were subjected to climbing test until exhaustion, which involved three excercises that included various types of load: continuous, intermittent with 30s load and 30s rest periods (test 30/30) and intermittent with 90s load and 90s rest periods (test 90/90). All subjects refrained from exercising at least 48h between each testing. The monitored variables were performance of climbing steps, heart rate (HR), oxygen consumption (VO2), minute ventilation (VE), energy expenditure (EE) and blood lactate (LA). Results: Peak values of monitored variables show that a climbing intensity was similar among all tests (HRpeak 168 ± 11 to 172 ± 7 bites/min, VO2peak 35,2 ± 4,7 to 40,3 ± 5,3 ml/kg/min, LA 4,1 ± 1,1 to 4,9 ± 1,4 mmol/l). EE was in average 9,0 to 9,8 kcal. Subjects climbed longest (4min 45s ± 37s) in the test 30/30 (six climbers achieved maximum defined time 10 x 30s), whereas total...
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Effect of climbing time and recovery time on repeated bouts of climbing performance
Šimkanin, Martin ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Panáčková, Michaela (referee)
The objective of this research was to assess continuous and intermittent training load and its influences to a rock climbing performance. Fifteen (11 M and 4 F) experienced (7- to 9 RP, UIAA) sport climbers (age 24,1 ± 2,7 years, body mass 66,4 ± 9,8 kg, height 173,1 ± 7,7 cm, HRmax 197,5 ± 3,7 beats .min-1 ) were subjected to climbing test, which involved three exercises of continuous and intermittent load. The first exercise involved 30s of climbing and 30s of passive recovery, maximum 12 repetitions. The load and recovery time in the second exercise were doubled and in the third exercise subject climbed until exhaustion. The pace of climbing was assigned 25 movements .min-1 at negative angle 135ž or 120ž, owing to their present climbing abilities. All subjects refrained from exercising at least 24h between each testing. Significant differences in performance were found between intermittent and continuous load. Climbers achieved the highest performance (165,5 ± 45,4 steps; time of climbing 6:22 ± 1:44) during intermittent exercise 1. Worse performance (135,6 ± 80,6 steps; time of climbing 5:08 ± 3:02) was noticed in the second intermittent exercise. The worst performance (53,7 ± 14,9 steps; time of climbing 2:06 ± 0:32) among of all exercises was noticed during continuous load. Mean HRmax values...
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