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Time-motion analysis of elite Czech sport climbers during Czech Lead Climbing Cup
Ježková, Ludmila ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Kodejška, Jan (referee)
Title: A time motion analysis of lead climbing of elite climbers in the competition route of Czech Cup. Objectives: The aim of this works is to perform time motion analysis of lead climbing of elite climbers in the competition route of Czech Cup. Methods: Data were collected by video recording. Observation criteria were set (total time, holding, quickdraw clipping, rest and chalking). 8 climbers were measured on the 10- UIAA difficulty route. Results: The average climbing time was 203 ± 32,6 s, the average holding time was 7,1 ± 0,8 s (total 161,3 ± 29,2 s), the average rets period was 1,2 ± 0,4 s (total 6,5 ± 3,3 s), the average quickdraw clipping time was 2,3 ± 0,4 s (total 24,9 ± 4,6 s), the average chalking time was 2,1 ± 0,6 s (total 16 ± 3,7 s) and the average hand-transfer time was 0,9 ± 0,2 s (total 38,4 ± 9,1 s). Climbers climbed 4,8 meters per minute. Conclusions: The static part almost four times prevails the dynamic part. There were no significant differences between right and left hand in our measurements. Keywords: holding, loading, rest, static phase, dynamic phase
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Analysis of climbing movments
Maternová, Hedvika ; Vomáčko, Ladislav (advisor) ; Baláš, Jiří (referee)
Title: Climbing movement analysis Objecives: Determine the ratio between the static and the dynamic phase of climbing artifitial wall by video recordings analysis. Find out if climbier clipping each quickdraw is faster and more dynamic than clipping every second. Determine if the static phase is getting longer during climbing period. Methods: Research is made by video recordings analysis. Examined group is formed by 9 women. To obtain the static and the dynamic phases, time periods of hands holding and not holding wall grips are measured. Those periods are recorded in the Microsoft Excel's tables and results are stored in graphs. Keywords: sport climbing, climbing step, static phase, dynamic phase
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