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Effect of pre-cooling on climbing performance in heat
Knap, Roman ; Kodejška, Jan (advisor) ; Baláš, Jiří (referee)
Title : The effect of local pre-exercise cooling on climbing performance in a hyperthermic environment. Objective: The aim of this work was to assess the effect of forearm precooling on climbing performance to exhaustion in a hyperthermic environment. Methods: The sample consisted of nineteen male participants aged 25 ± 6 years. The participants were selected from among the students of the University of Warsaw University of Technology according to a criterion selection (RP ≥ 6). Each participant underwent 3 laboratory visits. At each visit, he was put to the two graded tests on a climbing ergometer to local exhaustion, always using different procedures before the first and second tests (CWI15/PAS). The measured time to exhaustion (s) was used for performance evaluation. The effect of individual procedures on performance was evaluated using a paired T-test. Results: A significantly positive (P < 0.05) effect on climbing performance until exhaustion was found when using the CWI15 procedure before exercise. There was an average performance improvement (↑10.4%) compared to performance without precooling (PAS). When the CWI15 procedure was used between performances, a smaller natural decline in the second performance was found, and in most participants the CWI15 application even caused a significant...
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Reliability of incremental exhaustive treadwall test
Procházková, Adéla ; Kodejška, Jan (advisor) ; Busta, Jan (referee)
Title: Reliability of a graded test on a climbing ergometer until local exhaustion Aim: The aim of this work was to determine the reliability of the test to local exhaustion on a motorized rotary ergometer for sport climbers. Methods: 19 male climbers aged 24.7 ± 5.8 years, with a body weight of 74 ± 7.5 kg and a height of 178 ± 7.1 cm took part in a graded test and retest on a Climbstation rotary ergometer for two weeks. Reliability was assessed by repeated measures analysis of variance (ANOVA). Results: Statistical results showed high consistency of measurements (ICC = 0.90). Statistical significance reached P = 0.054. The detected mean measurement error was evaluated at 20.5 s and the coefficient of variation reached 6%. Conclusion: The measured reliability indicates a high reliability of the test. Based on these values, the test can be reliably applied when testing climbers in sport climbing. Key words: reliability, climbing ergometer, graded test, sport climbing
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Effect of climbing ability on energy expenditure of climbing
Kodejška, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Malý, Tomáš (referee)
The aim of the study was to evaluate the relation between climbing performance and energy demands while climbing through a specific submaximal test. The sample consisted of twenty-six climbers (age 26,8 ± 3,3 years, weight 70,6 ± 6,2 kg, height 177,6 ± 6,5 cm). Climbers were deliberately chosen so that their performance covers as much scale difficulty of UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) as possible. The performance was given by the climbers currently the highest ascent in the style of RP (Red Point). Performance of these climbers ranged between 4 to 10 degrees UIAA. Climbers were subjected to submaximal climbing test, which lasted three minutes in one slope. They moved at a constant speed of 25 movements. min-1 on climbing route, already known in advance, the slope after 3 minutes changed from 90 ř to 105 ř. VO2 (oxygen consumption), SF (heart rate) and VE (minute ventilation) significantly correlated with climbing performance of RP (90ř, VO2, r = - 0,82; SF, r = -0,66, VE, r = - 0,77; 105ř, VO2, r = - 0,84; SF, r = -0,78; VE, r = - 0,80 ). Respiratory rate during submaximal climb was about 25 breaths. min-1, which refers to a link with a climbing speed. VO2 during submaximal climbing can be used to evaluate the economy of movement. Keywords sport climbing, submaximal test,...
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Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers
Kodejška, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Stejskal, Pavel (referee) ; Radvanský, Jiří (referee)
Title: Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers Objectives: The aim of this study was to determine the effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contraction to failure in rock climbers. Methods: Thirty-two climbers (15 male and 17 female) completed three intermittent trials to failure, on a climbing-specific handgrip dynamometer, on three separate visits to the laboratory. For each visit a different recovery strategy was employed: passive recovery (PAS), cold water immersion at 8 řC (CWI 8) or 15 řC (CWI 15). The force time integral (FTI - time of contraction multiplied by the force of contraction) was determined to assess intermittent performance. The tissue saturation index (TSI) and total haemoglobin (tHb) during isometric contractions from near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) were determined to assess hemodynamic changes. Differences between repeated trials and three recovery protocols, derived parameters NIRS, were assessed using repeated measures ANOVA with Bonferroni corrections. Results: There was no significant difference between conditions after trial one. In response to the PAS recovery condition there was a 10% and 22% decrease in FTI in the second and third trials, respectively. The PAS...
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Critical power and force during continuous and intermittent contraction of finger flexors
Malečková, Lucie ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Kodejška, Jan (referee)
Title: Critical power and force during continuous and intermittent contractions of finger flexors Objectives: The aim of the study was to determine critical force of finger flexors during continuous exercise and to determine critical power at different work - relief ratios during intermittent exercise. Methods: Eight participants volunteered in the study (age 23,1 ± 1,8 years, height 172,9 ± 7,3 cm, body mass 67,1 ± 4,8 kg, climbing experience 5,4 ± 2,1 years and climbing performance from 6 to 8 on the Union International des Associations d'Alpinisme scale). Participants undertook one continuous and three intermittent handgrip contractions (work to relief ratio of 8:2, 7:3, 6:4) to failure at 60% and 40% maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) for dominant and non-dominant hand, respectively. For continuous contraction, the critical force was calculated from two exercises at 40% and 60% MVC and inversed time to failure using linear regression analysis; for intermitent contraction, the critical power was calculated from the three contraction ratios and inversed time to failure using linear regression analysis. Results: Critical force for continuous contraction was found at 20,4 ± 5,9 % MVC. The critical power for intermittent contractions was considered not to be valid and is not indicated. Conclusion:...
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Time-motion analysis of elite Czech sport climbers during Czech Lead Climbing Cup
Ježková, Ludmila ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Kodejška, Jan (referee)
Title: A time motion analysis of lead climbing of elite climbers in the competition route of Czech Cup. Objectives: The aim of this works is to perform time motion analysis of lead climbing of elite climbers in the competition route of Czech Cup. Methods: Data were collected by video recording. Observation criteria were set (total time, holding, quickdraw clipping, rest and chalking). 8 climbers were measured on the 10- UIAA difficulty route. Results: The average climbing time was 203 ± 32,6 s, the average holding time was 7,1 ± 0,8 s (total 161,3 ± 29,2 s), the average rets period was 1,2 ± 0,4 s (total 6,5 ± 3,3 s), the average quickdraw clipping time was 2,3 ± 0,4 s (total 24,9 ± 4,6 s), the average chalking time was 2,1 ± 0,6 s (total 16 ± 3,7 s) and the average hand-transfer time was 0,9 ± 0,2 s (total 38,4 ± 9,1 s). Climbers climbed 4,8 meters per minute. Conclusions: The static part almost four times prevails the dynamic part. There were no significant differences between right and left hand in our measurements. Keywords: holding, loading, rest, static phase, dynamic phase
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Cardiorespiratory and hemodynamic response during incremental climbing test in elite sport climbers
Zaťková, Alžbeta ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Kodejška, Jan (referee)
Title: Cardiorespiratory and hemodynamic response during incremental climbing test in elite sport climbers. Objectives: The aim of this work is to compare cardiorespiratory and hemodynamic response during incremental climbing test between boulderers and lead climbers. Methods: Five men underwent testing on a climbing ergometer with a submaximal climbing load (6m / min) and an incremental climbing test for the maximum. The cardiorespiratory response was assessed using a metabolic analyzer and tissue saturation of the flexor digitorum profundus by near-infrared spectroscopy. Furthermore, climbers underwent an incremental stress test on a running carpet. Results: Climbers with both lead and bouldering reached on climbing ergometer an average of 95 ± 3% of the maximum heart rate measured on the running ergometer. V'O2 ml·min-1 ·kg-1 had lead climbers slightly lower too on the running ergometer, (81 ± 8%, boulders 89.5 ± 0.5), but at the same time they reached a higher inclination (121, 7 ± 4.7 versus 117.5 ± 2.5) and longer duration (462 ± 73, boulder 443.37). We found the difference in the TSI values, too, but it was not larger than 7.2 for which I did not consider these values to be relevant. Conclusions: Deoxygenation and reoxygenation process showed minimal difference between lead climbers and...
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Parkour as a suitable physical activity for children aged 6-11 years
Tuček, Jonáš ; Bunc, Václav (advisor) ; Kodejška, Jan (referee)
Title: Parkour as a suitable physical activity for children aged 6-11 years Objectives: The primary aim of the thesis is to explain why parkour is a suitable physical activity for children aged 6-11 years, to state principles of children's parkour training and subsequently to elaborate a proposal of a training unit for beginners and advanced. Methods: The methodology of the thesis was mainly based on finding and sorting a large amount of literature. It is a theoretical work in the form of multicategory literary search, in which book sources, scientific articles, bachelor's and master's thesis were used. Other used sources were electronically accessible journals, books and studies. The sources primarily sought were dealing with the issues of parkour, training and the children's physical deficiency. Results: Children spend little time exercising and the prevalence of childhood obesity is increasing rapidly. Parkour appears to be a great tool for solving this problem, not only because of its high attractiveness and popularity, but also because it develops motion abilities complexly. The main principle of children's parkour training is to proceed from simpler techniques to more complex ones and to eliminate the risk of injury as much as possible. It is advisable to carry out all techniques first on the...
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Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers
Kodejška, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Stejskal, Pavel (referee) ; Radvanský, Jiří (referee)
Title: Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers Objectives: The aim of this study was to determine the effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contraction to failure in rock climbers. Methods: Thirty-two climbers (15 male and 17 female) completed three intermittent trials to failure, on a climbing-specific handgrip dynamometer, on three separate visits to the laboratory. For each visit a different recovery strategy was employed: passive recovery (PAS), cold water immersion at 8 řC (CWI 8) or 15 řC (CWI 15). The force time integral (FTI - time of contraction multiplied by the force of contraction) was determined to assess intermittent performance. The tissue saturation index (TSI) and total haemoglobin (tHb) during isometric contractions from near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) were determined to assess hemodynamic changes. Differences between repeated trials and three recovery protocols, derived parameters NIRS, were assessed using repeated measures ANOVA with Bonferroni corrections. Results: There was no significant difference between conditions after trial one. In response to the PAS recovery condition there was a 10% and 22% decrease in FTI in the second and third trials, respectively. The PAS...
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Effect of arm position on finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers
Kodejška, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Strejcová, Barbora (referee)
Title: Effect of arm position on finger flexor strength in sport climbers Objectives: The main purpose of this study was to assess the effect of arm position on finger flexor strength in sport climbers. Methods: Twenty-one women (age 24,5 ± 2,7 years, body weight 59,5 ± 8,3 kg, height 166,4 ± 6 cm) and twenty-five men (age 26,9 ± 5,3 years, body weight 71,7 ± 7,7 kg, height 177,2 ± 5,3 cm) volunteered to be a part of the study. The RP performance varied from the 3rd to 10th degree UIAA (Union International des Assocoation d'Alpinisme) scale. A specially manufactured tool was used to measure the finger flexor force with different positions of an arm. During the study, measurements were taken as the arm was adjusted into four different positions: Handgrip (0ř shoulder and elbow in full extension), Flexion90 (90ř shoulder flexion and external rotation of 45ř and the elbow in 90ř flexion supported by a board), Flexion130 (the arm 130ř abduction and elbow flexion 50ř) and Flexion180 (180ř shoulder flexion and elbow in full extension). The open grip was used for all positions, except for the Handgrip position where the thumb was in opposition. Results: The highest relation between the relative strength and RP climbing performance was found in the Flexion130 (r = 0,81) in women and in Flexion180 (r =...
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