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Forearm muscle oxygenation during repeated isometric contractions till exhaustion
Hannsmann, Johan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Gajdošík, Jan (referee)
Title: Oxygenation of forearm muscles during repeated isometric contraction until complete exhaustion in a group of climbers. Objectives: The aim of this work is to compare tissue oxygenation of finger flexors during repeated intermittent contractions until exhaustion in a group of sport climbers. Methods: Research was made on a sample consisting of 15 men and 14 women. Climbers were tested in 3 stress parts with 20 minutes of passive rest. The stress part consisted of intermittent isometric contraction 8s:2s on 60% MVC (Maximum voluntary contraction), until exhaustion. O2 kinetics in flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) and executed work and time of exercise was measured during the whole experiment with near infra-red spectroscopy (NIRS) and custom made dynamometer. Results: Average amount of tissue saturation was around 59% before test. During exercise was minimal saturation around 35%. During rest periods was average around 62% with maximum at 82%. During contraction was deoxygenation around 8,8% in average and it didn't depend on sex or preferences of climbing discipline. Conclusion: During intermittent performance aimed on finger flexors at 60% MVC was decline of tissue saturation 24% in average. Process of deoxygenation and reoxygenation has almost no differences between sex, neither between lead...
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Validity of new boulder area difficulty scaling
Hannsmann, Johan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Chaloupský, David (referee)
Title: Validity assessment of the grading scale evaluation in a new bouldering area. Objectives: The aim of this work is to assess the grading scale validity of bouldering routes in a new area. Methods: Routes grading was verified by a group of six men and four women. The evaluation took place during one continuous visit in the rocks with an individual rest period between problems. The classification of each of the 10 ascents was conducted immediately after finishing the specific problem. It was done individually, without the possibility to consult their guesses and ideas. The proposed difficulties of the classified routes ranged from 12 to 17 IRCRA. Results: The average rating of the route difficulty classification was 0.89 IRCRA points higher than the initial suggestion, with minor differences between men and women. The influence of climbers' performance on their ability to assess routes' difficulty was statistically insignificant. Conclusion: The first climbers of boulders in the area of Goethe rock underestimate the climbing grades, which proves that the determination of difficulty in local climbing centers can be significantly skewed compared to established standards. Keywords: bouldering, grading scales, IRCRA, validity
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Forearm muscle oxygenation during repeated isometric contractions till exhaustion
Hannsmann, Johan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Gajdošík, Jan (referee)
Title: Oxygenation of forearm muscles during repeated isometric contraction until complete exhaustion in a group of climbers. Objectives: The aim of this work is to compare tissue oxygenation of finger flexors during repeated intermittent contractions until exhaustion in a group of sport climbers. Methods: Research was made on a sample consisting of 15 men and 14 women. Climbers were tested in 3 stress parts with 20 minutes of passive rest. The stress part consisted of intermittent isometric contraction 8s:2s on 60% MVC (Maximum voluntary contraction), until exhaustion. O2 kinetics in flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) and executed work and time of exercise was measured during the whole experiment with near infra-red spectroscopy (NIRS) and custom made dynamometer. Results: Average amount of tissue saturation was around 59% before test. During exercise was minimal saturation around 35%. During rest periods was average around 62% with maximum at 82%. During contraction was deoxygenation around 8,8% in average and it didn't depend on sex or preferences of climbing discipline. Conclusion: During intermittent performance aimed on finger flexors at 60% MVC was decline of tissue saturation 24% in average. Process of deoxygenation and reoxygenation has almost no differences between sex, neither between lead...
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