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Verification of a 4 min all out test as a reliable indicator of sport climbers finger flexors critical force
Taušl, Pavel ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Gajdošík, Jan (referee)
Title: Verification of a 4 min all out test as a reliable indicator of sport climbers finger flexors critical force. Objectives: The aim of this study was to assess the reliability of an 4 min all-out test which determines climbers finger flexors critical force. Methods: 6 participants did a 4 minute all out test to determine their finger flexors critical force. Afterwards, they did several verification tests with +2, -2, -4 and -6 kilograms added or deducted from their crtical force for 12 minutes or until failure, where their maximal metabolic steady state should be observed based on muscle oxygenation and subjective intensity control. Results: 4 climbers have reached their maximal metabolic steady state. 2 of them reached it at 4 kilograms below their critical power and 2 of them reached it at 6 kilograms below their critical power. 2 climbers did not make another verification measurements. Conlcusion: 4 minute all-out test overestimated critical power by 26 % at a given population. Key words: spectroscopy, maximal metabolic steady state, sport climbing, climbing performance.
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Effect of two active recovery methods on repeated bouts of finger flexor isometric performance
Psohlavec, Lukáš ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Malý, Tomáš (referee)
Title: Effect of two active recovery methods on repeated bout of finger flexors isometric performance. Goals: Compare two methods of active recovery - global and local, during repeated isometric performance and learn the difference between active and passive recovery. Method: Ten recreational athletes in average age 30,4 ± 5,9 years performed in a random cross-over desing 3 sessions with 3 repeated isometric intermittent contraction. The effect of active global recovery, active local recovery and passive recovery between repetions was monitored. Results: More effective type of recovery was active recovery. There was no difference between both active recovery methods. Performed decrease in active global recovery was activleast effective method of recovery was passive recovery. Decrease in the time in active global recovery was 21,7s (29,77%) and in active local recovery 20,8s (30,1%). The least effective was passive recovery. There was decrease 24,6s (35,34%). Key words: recovery, active recovery, local recovery, finger flexors, interrmitent, isometric contraction.
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Predictive validity of the all-out test of finger flexors for climbing performance
Štanglerová, Magdaléna ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Šteffl, Michal (referee)
Title: Predictive validity of the All- out test of finger flexors for climbing performance Objectives: The main aim of the study was to determine the predictive validity of the all-out test of finger flexors during climbing performance for competitive sport climbers in redpoint (RP), on-sight (OS), and bouldering. Methods: The work was carried out as a cross sectional study, in which the relationship among climbing performance and the results of all- out test was researched. The all-out test was implemented by a dominant hand according to the protocol on a specific climbing dynamometer 1D SAC (SpaceLAb Sofia, Bulgaria) on a 23 mm wide rung. The non parametric statistical Mann-Whitney U-test for continuous variables and chi-square test for categorical variables were used in data analysis. Spearman's rank correlation coefficient was used in the correlation analysis. A standardised Beta coefficient was calculated in linear regression models to assess the predictive validity of selected variables from the all-out test. Results: The tested group was consisted of a total of 31 mostly sport climbers aged 30.0 ± 8,6 years, of which 23 were men and 8 women. The highest statistically significant correlation among men was between OS climbing performance and the moment of force from the whole all-out test W...
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Effect of two active recovery methods on repeated bouts of finger flexor isometric performance
Psohlavec, Lukáš ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Malý, Tomáš (referee)
Title: Effect of two active recovery methods on repeated bout of finger flexors isometric performance. Goals: Compare two methods of active recovery - global and local, during repeated isometric performance and learn the difference between active and passive recovery. Method: Ten recreational athletes in average age 30,4 ± 5,9 years performed in a random cross-over desing 3 sessions with 3 repeated isometric intermittent contraction. The effect of active global recovery, active local recovery and passive recovery between repetions was monitored. Results: More effective type of recovery was active recovery. There was no difference between both active recovery methods. Performed decrease in active global recovery was activleast effective method of recovery was passive recovery. Decrease in the time in active global recovery was 21,7s (29,77%) and in active local recovery 20,8s (30,1%). The least effective was passive recovery. There was decrease 24,6s (35,34%). Key words: recovery, active recovery, local recovery, finger flexors, interrmitent, isometric contraction.
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Effect of arm position on finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers
Kodejška, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Strejcová, Barbora (referee)
Title: Effect of arm position on finger flexor strength in sport climbers Objectives: The main purpose of this study was to assess the effect of arm position on finger flexor strength in sport climbers. Methods: Twenty-one women (age 24,5 ± 2,7 years, body weight 59,5 ± 8,3 kg, height 166,4 ± 6 cm) and twenty-five men (age 26,9 ± 5,3 years, body weight 71,7 ± 7,7 kg, height 177,2 ± 5,3 cm) volunteered to be a part of the study. The RP performance varied from the 3rd to 10th degree UIAA (Union International des Assocoation d'Alpinisme) scale. A specially manufactured tool was used to measure the finger flexor force with different positions of an arm. During the study, measurements were taken as the arm was adjusted into four different positions: Handgrip (0ř shoulder and elbow in full extension), Flexion90 (90ř shoulder flexion and external rotation of 45ř and the elbow in 90ř flexion supported by a board), Flexion130 (the arm 130ř abduction and elbow flexion 50ř) and Flexion180 (180ř shoulder flexion and elbow in full extension). The open grip was used for all positions, except for the Handgrip position where the thumb was in opposition. Results: The highest relation between the relative strength and RP climbing performance was found in the Flexion130 (r = 0,81) in women and in Flexion180 (r =...
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