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The popularity growth of sport climbing demonstrated on media coverage of Adam Ondra
Hübsch, Dan ; Trunečka, Ondřej (advisor) ; Turková, Kateřina (referee)
The bachelor thesis deals with the transformation of the reporting on sport climbing by three major Czech sports news sites Sport.cz, iSport.cz, and the sports section of iDNES.cz demonstrated on media coverage of the Czech climber Adam Ondra - a multiple medalist from the world and European championships, an Olympic participant, and the first person to climb the highest difficulty route ever achieved - considered to be the current best climber in the world. The theoretical part of the thesis encompasses, in addition to the profile of the observed athlete, the concept of gatekeeping and the related theory of news values which are subsequently applied to sports media and used in the analytical part. The thesis aims to capture the development associated with the transformation of reporting on Adam Ondra, and thus, on sport climbing as well. The purpose of the thesis is based on the hypothesis that the number of published articles is going to increase during the period under review due to Ondra's achievements. And that is going to be proven.
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Effect of caffeine supplementation on force gradient in forearm flexors
Běhounek, Michal ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Krupková, Dominika (referee)
Title: Effect of caffeine on rate of force development of finger flexors Objectives: The goal of this study is to assess the effect of caffeine on rate of force development of finger flexors. Methods: 10 hobby sport climbers (7 men, 3 women in age 20-34 years) during 3 visits of laboratory submit specific test to evaluate rate of force development of finger flexors. First measurement was the control one, in other two they were suplement by amout of 5mg/kg caffeine or placebo, in random order. The participants were measurement also for maximal strengh and and 4minutes all-out test. Results: Maximal speed of contraction in control measurement was in average 170,1 ± 54,3 kg/s. After suplementation of caffeine the average rises up to 190,9 ± 43,3 kg/s. The placebo average value was 156,9 ± 60,9 kg/s. Paired T-test does not confirm any significant differences between control measurement and measurement after caffeine suplementation. Conclusion: Results shown that caffeine does not affect the rate of force development of finger flexors. Key words: sport climbing, rate of force development (RFD), climbing dynamometer
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Possibilities of compensatory exercise in sport climbing
POLÁKOVÁ, Eliška
This bachelor thesis is about the possibilities of compensatory exercise in sport climbing. It is focused on muscle imbalance, stereotypical movements and the impact of compensatory exercise on the performance of the participants of the study. The main goal of this thesis is to create a proposal of compensatory exercises which should reduce muscle imbalances. The next goal is to describe the impact of these exercises on the participants performances. This thesis is divided into a theoretical and a practical part. The theoretical part is briefly describing climbing, its categories, the ranking of performance in this sport and biomechanics of climbing. The next chapters are about epidemiology of sport climbing injuries and muscle imbalance. After that there is a chapter focused on compensatory exercise, its categories, goals and principles. The practical part contains the methodology which was made in form of a qualitative research. Tha data from this research was processed into individual case reports. 3 people participated in this study. A semistructured interview within the anamnesis and a kinesiological examination were used to gather the data for this study. After that a unit of compensatory exercises was designed. The final examination was performed after aproximately 2 months and it is desribed in the results section. This thesis can be used as an inspiration for compensatory exercise for climbers. It can also be useful to coaches of childrens or adults and to general public interested in this topic.
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The impact of sport climbing on anatomic structure and functional attributes of human feet
FIKEJSOVÁ, Veronika
The theme of this bachelor´s thesis is a study of the impact of sport climbing on structure and functional characteristics of the foot. The aim of this thesis is to compare the structure and functional characteristics of the feet of people that actively pursue sport climbing with the feet of people that do not. In the theoretical part of this thesis is briefly described climbing in all of its forms including sport climbing. There are also described functional anatomy and kinesiology of the foot, including kinetics and kinematics and basic information about proprioception. In the practical part are introduced probands that participated in this study. There are two groups of five probands. One group is comprised of active sport climbers, one group of non-climbers. There are also summary and comparison of all the data and results obtained during examinations. Final characteristics of the foot of climbers are in comparison with non-climbers rather positive. It turned out that the group of climbers has better characteristics in functional attributes of the foot, strength of the foot arch and symmetry of both feet. On the other side the group of non-climbers has better outcome in the flexibility and range of motions in selected joints.
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Effect of Wim Hof breathing on finger flexors performance during all-out test in sport climbers
Zýková, Eliška ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Hráský, Pavel (referee)
Title: The effect of Wim Hof breathing method in relation with sport climbing performance in all-out test Key words: sport climbing, hyperventilation, breathing exercise Objectives: The study is aimed to determine if there is an impact of Wim Hof breathing method on power performance of finger flexors during intermittent load. Methods: The thesis was made as an experimental study with ten volunteers, who are active sport climbers. They filled-out questionnaire and gave their consent to participate in the study. After that, they went through the all-out test of finger flexors twice. One time they did Wim Hof breathing method before their performance and one time they didn't. This succession was determined by random selection. The results of both tests were compared and assessed by Student t-test. Results: The main outcome value, work impuls, didn't vary. The impuls without previous Wim Hof breathing method was 4477 ± 14,3 kg.s and with Wim Hof breathing method 4385 ± 13,8 kg.s. There was only one outcoming value from the all-out test, which was varying on level of significance α = 5% (the repetitions of critical force). None of others 10 figures from the all-out test didn't vary. The Borg rating of perceived exertion didn't vary as well. Conclusions: This diploma thesis didn't confirm that Wim Hof...
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Effect of pre-cooling on climbing performance in heat
Knap, Roman ; Kodejška, Jan (advisor) ; Baláš, Jiří (referee)
Title : The effect of local pre-exercise cooling on climbing performance in a hyperthermic environment. Objective: The aim of this work was to assess the effect of forearm precooling on climbing performance to exhaustion in a hyperthermic environment. Methods: The sample consisted of nineteen male participants aged 25 ± 6 years. The participants were selected from among the students of the University of Warsaw University of Technology according to a criterion selection (RP ≥ 6). Each participant underwent 3 laboratory visits. At each visit, he was put to the two graded tests on a climbing ergometer to local exhaustion, always using different procedures before the first and second tests (CWI15/PAS). The measured time to exhaustion (s) was used for performance evaluation. The effect of individual procedures on performance was evaluated using a paired T-test. Results: A significantly positive (P < 0.05) effect on climbing performance until exhaustion was found when using the CWI15 procedure before exercise. There was an average performance improvement (↑10.4%) compared to performance without precooling (PAS). When the CWI15 procedure was used between performances, a smaller natural decline in the second performance was found, and in most participants the CWI15 application even caused a significant...
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Reliability of incremental exhaustive treadwall test
Procházková, Adéla ; Kodejška, Jan (advisor) ; Busta, Jan (referee)
Title: Reliability of a graded test on a climbing ergometer until local exhaustion Aim: The aim of this work was to determine the reliability of the test to local exhaustion on a motorized rotary ergometer for sport climbers. Methods: 19 male climbers aged 24.7 ± 5.8 years, with a body weight of 74 ± 7.5 kg and a height of 178 ± 7.1 cm took part in a graded test and retest on a Climbstation rotary ergometer for two weeks. Reliability was assessed by repeated measures analysis of variance (ANOVA). Results: Statistical results showed high consistency of measurements (ICC = 0.90). Statistical significance reached P = 0.054. The detected mean measurement error was evaluated at 20.5 s and the coefficient of variation reached 6%. Conclusion: The measured reliability indicates a high reliability of the test. Based on these values, the test can be reliably applied when testing climbers in sport climbing. Key words: reliability, climbing ergometer, graded test, sport climbing
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Evaluation of the impact of sport climbing in the locomotor system, focusing on the lumbar spine
Kříhová, Jana ; Pavlů, Dagmar (advisor) ; Pánek, David (referee)
Evidenční list Souhlasím se zapůjčením své diplomové práce ke studijním účelům. Uživatel svým podpisem stvrzuje, že tuto diplomovou práci použil ke studiu a prohlašuje, že ji uvede mezi použitými prameny. Jméno a příjmení: Fakulta / katedra: Datum vypůjčení: Podpis: ______________________________________________________________________ ABSTRAKT Název: Zhodnocení vlivu sportovního lezení na pohybový aparát se zaměřením na bederní páteř Cíle práce: Cílem práce je zhodnotit vliv sportovního lezení na pohybový aparát člověka s užším zaměřením na oblast bederní páteře pomocí předem stanovených testů a vyšetření orientujících se na bederní část axiálního systému u skupiny lezců a nelezců. Dílčím cílem je teoretické zpracování problematiky sportovního lezení, bederní páteře a shrnutí vlivu sportovního lezení na pohybový aparát. Metoda řešení: Nejprve byla provedena rešerše literatury týkající se problematiky sportovního lezení a bederní páteře. Poté byla na skupině dvaceti lezců a kontrolní skupině dvaceti nelezců provedena komparativní studie, během které bylo provedeno funkční vyšetření bederní páteře pomocí PBU ("pressure biofeedback unit") dle konceptu Spinální segmentální stabilizace a vyšetření pohybových stereotypů a zkrácených svalů dle Jandy. Výsledky byly statisticky zhodnoceny pomocí programu Microsoft...
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Effect of climbing ability on energy expenditure of climbing
Kodejška, Jan ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Malý, Tomáš (referee)
The aim of the study was to evaluate the relation between climbing performance and energy demands while climbing through a specific submaximal test. The sample consisted of twenty-six climbers (age 26,8 ± 3,3 years, weight 70,6 ± 6,2 kg, height 177,6 ± 6,5 cm). Climbers were deliberately chosen so that their performance covers as much scale difficulty of UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) as possible. The performance was given by the climbers currently the highest ascent in the style of RP (Red Point). Performance of these climbers ranged between 4 to 10 degrees UIAA. Climbers were subjected to submaximal climbing test, which lasted three minutes in one slope. They moved at a constant speed of 25 movements. min-1 on climbing route, already known in advance, the slope after 3 minutes changed from 90 ř to 105 ř. VO2 (oxygen consumption), SF (heart rate) and VE (minute ventilation) significantly correlated with climbing performance of RP (90ř, VO2, r = - 0,82; SF, r = -0,66, VE, r = - 0,77; 105ř, VO2, r = - 0,84; SF, r = -0,78; VE, r = - 0,80 ). Respiratory rate during submaximal climb was about 25 breaths. min-1, which refers to a link with a climbing speed. VO2 during submaximal climbing can be used to evaluate the economy of movement. Keywords sport climbing, submaximal test,...
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