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Application of blood flow restriction by a sport training of climbers - an innovative training method for sportsmen?
Javorský, Tomáš ; Baláš, Jiří (advisor) ; Dostal, Jiří (referee)
Title: Application of blood flow restriction by a sport training of climbers - an innovative training method for sportsmen? Author: Tomáš Javorský BSc. Department: Department of Physiology Supervisor: doc. Jiří Baláš, Ph.D. Abstract: The most common injuries of performance climbers include tendon injuries of finger flexors. This kind of injury can leave a sportsman unable to follow his training programme for several months, which can have a crucial impact on his peak season. The thesis comprised a comparison of a high-intensity training performed at 70% of muscle strength maximum, with a blood flow restriction training performed at a 30% muscle load, and also the physiological and functional aspects of the training. Objectives: The presumption is, that the combination of a low muscle load with an ischemy will achieve the same results as a high-intensity training. We also presume, that the alterations in muscle oxygenation remain the same despite different amounts of performed muscle work. Methods: 13 participants finished the experiment performed in the form of a crossover study. During the experiment the muscle oxidative capacity and the extent of the muscle deoxygenation were measured by spectroscopy. The maximum force, critical force, impulse and the impulse above the critical force point were measured...

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